Oranges, and if I'm being really honest here, browns too, are just about the most scary things I can imagine putting on my eyelids. Sure, I love a coral lip (as long as it's a pinky one like Cargo's Evangeline), but as evidenced by Essie's signature nail polish colour theory, my skin tone just seems to be too cool to fully embrace the warm colours. And by cool I mean with pinky undertones—not cool as in awesome.
However, I might be wrong, because increasingly I'm hearing—from EVERYONE—that there are no more colour rules. Giorgio Armani's Reza Zaimeche was the first one to put forth this theory in my vid last fall, and since then I've heard it over and over, most recently yesterday when I interviewed celebrity colourist Marie Robinson, who thinks anyone can wear any hair colour. (Exciting! I can't wait to show you guys the video I shot with her, because she had a hundred thousand million amazing tips.)
But obviously THIS post is about makeup, and specifically, orange tones—which I assume none of us probably make a habit of wearing—and whether we actually should start. Designers at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Rodarte, Rag & Bone, Donna Karan and Thakoon certainly want us to, whether they're pale tones or super-loud and shocking. While the look last Fashion Week, at Derek Lam, was more about a narrow strip of bright colour along the lashline, these ones are different. Let's review:
Just a hint of warmth at Marc by Marc Jacobs:
Can you even call this orange? I'm going to roll with it, since it's not quite brown but not quite pink either.
And not even a specific makeup shade, actually. This is all Shiseido, and what makeup artist Dick Page did was to swirl a big brush into coral, rose, pink, peach, white and gold powders (got all that?) and then applied it according to what suited each girl's skintone best.
So, you know, this one is easy: To get the look, you could simply take your usual peachy-pink blush and then dust some across the lids. Done and done!
Medium tones (!!!) at Rodarte:
So this one made me chuckle. Not even a couple of weeks ago, I dissed medium tones, HARD, but almost as an afterthought at the end of my post mused that it wouldn't be long before the Fashion Gods would be encouraging us to embrace them again. I mean, everything else from the 70s and 80s is in style, so it only makes sense.
And now here we are. I didn't think it would come this fast, but you know what? These ones kind of look good. Or maybe it's just that it's impossible to make models look bad.
I can't endorse the nails (Deborah Lippmann in No More Drama), but am quite enjoying the lids, which get that caramel colour from a concealer called M.A.C Pro Longwear in NC45. You'll probably want to skip these parts, but there's also a bit of lavender grey (M.A.C eyeshadow in Crystal) above the crease, and yellow (M.A.C cream shadow in Yellow Scream) along the brow bone. And in case you dig the lips (I know I do), the shade is M.A.C lipstick in Photo.
With dramatic liner at Rag & Bone:
Not that I'm gonna be brave enough to rock it, but this one is my fave! Courtesy Gucci Westman, of course, whose hubby co-founded the label. It's also more wearable with that black liner, because (and you know I always say this), it grounds the look and makes it less ethereal and more sexy.
Gucci used Revlon prodz, of course. And these makeup artists kill me! While the Rodarte look was achieved with concealer, this one comes from lipstick—an aubergine from the forthcoming Bordeaux in the Snow palette, which will launch this fall. I'm not sure if the pic above was from before it got blended with Revlon Matte Eyeshadow in Rich Sable, because this next shot makes it look more brown:
Either way, the main takeaways here are extending the colour right up to the brows if you dare), and using lotsa liner. Oh, and lipstick as eyeshadow, I guess, if that strikes your fancy.
With Pepto pink lips at Donna Karan:
This is not my cup of tea. You? First of all, the orange is TOO orange. (M.A.C Sepia Cream Colour Base with Pro Gloss Texture for shine.) And with those "marshmellowy" lips (a combo of M.A.C Flesh Pot, See Sheer and Up the Amp), this is strictly a look for the runway.
Oh and speaking of things best left on the runways...
Kraaaaazy Kolours at Thakoon:
At first glance, it seems to be more about the bold slash (and I mean SLASH) of crimson. But with the eyes closed, you can really see the orange:
What you're looking at is NARS Taj Mahal, Desire and Exhibit A blushes, plus Dragon Girl Velvet Matte Lip Pencil; all of these things combined to produce the look of "an African sunset." (No, you can't make this stuff up.) And you know, call me crazy, but it's kinda pretty in an I'd-Never-Wear-This-in-a-Million-Years sort of way.
What do you think of the orange eyelids movement?
Would you evah wear this—even the Marc by Marc Jacobs version?
Can you believe we have to start wrapping our brains around medium shades again ALREADY? I feel like it's skinny jeans all over again.