I really like Taylor Swift, but as you know, for a while there she was really getting me down about winged eyeliner—you know, the kind that is black and on the upper lash line only and extends out at the corners.
Besides the fact that she wears it All. Of. The. Time, I think it’s because she always pairs hers with ruby-red lipstick and her side-parted curls… and it’s all so twee, I just can’t take it. Even though, as I said, I think she is great.
Happily, it has taken Chanel, a few weeks ago, and now, the great Marc Jacobs, to restore my faith in what is honestly one of the prettiest things you can do with your eye makeup. (Because the consensus from my last post was that orange eyeshadow is verrrry tricky, if not downright unflattering.)
No orange here today, folks, but I DO want to break down some of the eye-lining, and also blush placement, techniques. What can I say—I like to be servicey! Let’s start with my favourite one first.
Upside-Down Winged Eyeliner at Marc Jacobs:
Don’t you just die over this?
I think it actually comes off way prettier than the artistic vision intended (Marc was, apparently, very specific with the makeup artist, François Nars, on what he wanted). And that was “perverted perfection—like a mad lady who put on eyeliner, but not well, and too much rouge.”
Instead (to my eyes anyway), it looks quite clean and fresh, but with a couple of cool twists on what we’re used to seeing in blush and eyeliner.
The twist on the eyeliner is that it’s “upside-down”—instead of flicking up at the outer corners, it’s angled DOWN from the lash line.
And if this sounds familiar, it’s because I have talked about this technique before, when Toronto-based makeup artist David Goveia did my eye makeup last summer. His advice was that flicking up doesn’t necessarily suit everyone’s eye shape, and that for some of us (including me), going down works better. You just need to follow your natural eye shape all along the lash line and then keep going out just a tiny bit more at the ends, which is what he did here. (Please ignore the INSANE amount of freckles I seem to have in this photo. I am blaming the lighting.)
Eeks! Okay, in order to erase that image from your mind I will quickly show you another pic of how this looks on a proper model:
The prodz used were all NARS: Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, plus two new ones for fall: Grand Palais Duo Eyeshadow (for now, try using Lokoum Cream Blush) and Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via Veneto (for now, try Black Moon Eyeliner Pencil).
Now let’s talk about the blush:
Well, this time, it’s down from the apples of the cheeks, toward the jawline. Like I said, this was supposed to translate to “crazy lady” but to me looks like the way your cheeks get when you’ve just come in from the cold. (The product used was Lokoum Cream Blush, by the way.)
I love it all and want to try this look immediately. And maybe the next one too, because it’s kinda sorta like the Chanel look, with winged-UP liner and high blush…
Turned-up liner at Vivienne Tam:
I don’t have great pics from this show, but here’s a closer look at the eye-lining technique, which looks pretty much exactly the same as the blunt, thick line that Peter Philips did for Chanel couture.
Happily, you don’t have to shell out on Chanel to get this look. Everything used here was Maybelline New York: Lasting Drama Gel Liner in Black and Lash Stiletto Mascara (which, as I said here, is one of those tubey formulas and is excellent). On the cheeks, they used Fit Me Blush in Deep Rose, worn high up near the temples. (And of course, I didn’t mention this yet, but you really need to rock this look sans lip colour.)
Here’s the final effect:
Now, if that’s too much for y’all, how about…
Classic winged liner at Carolina Herrera:
If you prefer your winged liner more classic and clean—for more of a daytime look, for example—then Carolina’s your girl.
This was achieved with M.A.C Black Creme Liner along the top lash line only, and Haute & Naughty mascara on the upper lashes. Notice also the full, but groomed, brows. And I think because this is so clean and subtle, you can do the stained lip like the model is wearing here (it’s M.A.C. Lipstick in Prince Noir but blotted with a tissue).
Finally, this has nothing to do with eyeliner, but I NEED to show you this brows ‘n blush combo:
Strong brows and lotsa blush at Oscar de la Renta:
This was another Gucci Westman special. Whereas last time she did Oscar, we saw those dreamy blue-green eyeshadows, this time the look was specifically about girls “having been someplace—either out in the cold or somewhere hot.”
That meant that cheeks got this beautiful wash of colour using Revlon ColorBurst Lipsticks (!!) in Fuchsia and Candy Pink.
On the brows, Gucci used Revlon Brow Fantasy in Dark Brown. Like we saw at Alexander Wang the other day, darkening the brows really frames the look when you aren’t wearing much other makeup. But because I heart blush (and may or may not wear extreme amounts of it myself), this one gets top marks from me.
Do you heart blush as well—and if so, do you like the version at Marc Jacobs, Vivienne Tam or Oscar de la Renta?
Does this also inspire you to get creative with your winged eyeliner?
Who knew there were so many ways to do it, right? Up, down, thick, thin… we’re not in Kansas anymore, peoples.
Tags: 2011 Fall Fashion Week, blush, brow pencil, brows, Carolina Herrera, eyeliner, François Nars, Gucci Westman, lip stain, MAC, makeup, Marc Jacobs, mascara, NARS, Oscar de la Renta, Revlon, Vivienne Tam