The New Way to Wear Eyeshadow is all the Way Around and Up to the Brows

At least if New York Fashion Week is any indication.
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Michelle Villett
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At least if New York Fashion Week is any indication.
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As if the orange eyeshadow thing wasn't scary enough. At New York Fashion Week, I noticed a second eyeshadow trend—one that's been brewing for a while now, if you've been paying attention. (Hint: We saw inklings of it at Chanel, Giorgio Armani and Oscar de la Renta for S/S '11.)

What I'm talking about is not the colour but the placement of it, which is all the way around the eyes AND all the way up to the brows.

You heard me. There's none of this timid, dainty, just-darkening-the-lash-line business or the Old Skool tone-on-tone contouring of the crease. (Even if—like me and 99 percent of the Asian population—you don't actually possess a crease.)

Nope. The eyeshadow gods are saying "MORE!!!!" And so who are we to displease them? Here are a few of the heavy-handed looks from Vera Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, L'Wren Scott and Narciso Rodriguez. And surprise! They work on all eye shapes.

Dialed-Up Smokies at Vera Wang:

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Consider this look the smoky eye on steroids. Apparently, the inspiration was "American women going to England in the 1930s." (Come on, guys. Did our grandmothers really pile on the taupey grey shadows? Probably they all just had mayjah dark circles.)

Anyhoo, the look is a bit more dramatic on an Asian eye, above, than on the Caucasian model:

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The makeup is all Clé de Peau (read: crazy-expensive). On the eyes, it's the limited-edition Cream Eye Color in Moonshadow.

No matter what you think of the application, it looks like a great colour that would suit most skintones. And I really enjoy the modernity of putting it under the lower lashes.

Watery Greens at 3.1 Phillip Lim:

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Now THIS is the new way to wear pastels—all diffused and dreamy in the palest wash of colour. They're even softer than the Oscar de la Renta version (catch the how-to vid here).

This is all NARS: the shadow shade was achieved by swirling together the sea green colour from the Delphes Trio Eyeshadow (out this fall; for now, try the shimmering sage side of April Fools Duo Eyeshadow) with the aqua blue from the Cap Ferrat Trio Eyeshadow (coming this summer; try Cleo Duo Eyeshadow).

The inner rims were lined with a greeny metallic (Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Rue de Rivoli; launching fall 2011). The finishing touch was bright turquoise underneath the lower lashes: Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Abbey Road(out this fall; try Kaliste Eyeliner Pencil).

Whew! Got all that?

Here's how it looks on an Asian eye:

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Kind of cool, right? Even though you wouldn't think it would work.

The effect is, of course, less dramatic (but still stunning) on darker skin tones:

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Gorgeous.

Taylor Momsen-esque at L'Wren Scott:

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Would you believe it if I told you that Taylor Momsen was actually the inspiration for this look? Fo realz.

Every time I see Taylor I get the urge to provide her with a hot meal and a warm bath (plus a wet facecloth to wipe off all that gunk)... so I'm not really feeling this. I dig the excessive eyeshadow trend, but only to a point. Even this is too heavy-handed for my taste.

For real life, I suggest toning the raccoon eyes down—way down. The prodz used here were Lancôme Le Crayon Kohl Eyeliner in Black Ebony and the black pigment from the company's forthcoming Gris Fatale eye shadow palette (out this fall). Oh, and one of my all-time favourite mascaras, Lancôme Hypnôse.

Imperfect Purples at Narciso Rodriguez:

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So if you're not feeling this extreme eyeshadow thing, AT ALL, then perhaps you'll enjoy Narciso's "scruffy sexy" version, where the colour was applied under the lower lashes (which makes it fresh) but stopped at the crease (before it makes you uncomfortable).

And my goodness—isn't it purty?

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The prodz are Shiseido, specifically the Shimmering Cream Eye Color in a mixture of Purple Dawn and Caviar. I've got a few of these little pots and they rock. Usually, I apply 'em with my fingers, but here, makeup maestro Dick Page used an angled brush close to the lashes and then blended with a creamy black pigment.

So tell me—

Would you ever wear your eyeshadow all crazy-like (a la Vera Wang or 3.1 Phillip Lim)?
Or is the purple Narciso version as far as you're willing to go?
Does it strike you as odd that designers are taking makeup tips from Taylor Momsen?