New York F/W ’11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

New York Fashion Week Fall 2011 Vera Wang makeup

As if the orange eyeshadow thing wasn’t scary enough. At New York Fashion Week, I noticed a second eyeshadow trend—one that’s been brewing for a while now, if you’ve been paying attention. (Hint: We saw inklings of it at Chanel, Giorgio Armani and Oscar de la Renta for S/S ’11.)

What I’m talking about is not the colour but the placement of it, which is all the way around the eyes AND all the way up to the brows.

You heard me. There’s none of this timid, dainty, just-darkening-the-lash-line business or the Old Skool tone-on-tone contouring of the crease. (Even if—like me and 99 percent of the Asian population—you don’t actually possess a crease.)

Nope. The eyeshadow gods are saying “MORE!!!!” And so who are we to displease them? Here are a few of the heavy-handed looks from Vera Wang, 3.1 Phillip Lim, L’Wren Scott and Narciso Rodriguez. And surprise! They work on all eye shapes.

Dialed-Up Smokies at Vera Wang:

NYFW F11 Vera Wang 2 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

Consider this look the smoky eye on steroids. Apparently, the inspiration was “American women going to England in the 1930s.” (Come on, guys. Did our grandmothers really pile on the taupey grey shadows? Probably they all just had mayjah dark circles.)

Anyhoo, the look is a bit more dramatic on an Asian eye, above, than on the Caucasian model:

NYFW F11 Vera Wang 3 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

The makeup is all Clé de Peau (read: crazy-expensive). On the eyes, it’s the limited-edition Cream Eye Color in Moonshadow.

No matter what you think of the application, it looks like a great colour that would suit most skintones. And I really enjoy the modernity of putting it under the lower lashes.

Watery Greens at 3.1 Phillip Lim:

NYFW F11 3.1 Phillip Lim 2 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

Now THIS is the new way to wear pastels—all diffused and dreamy in the palest wash of colour. They’re even softer than the Oscar de la Renta version (catch the how-to vid here).

This is all NARS: the shadow shade was achieved by swirling together the sea green colour from the Delphes Trio Eyeshadow (out this fall; for now, try the shimmering sage side of April Fools Duo Eyeshadow) with the aqua blue from the Cap Ferrat Trio Eyeshadow (coming this summer; try Cleo Duo Eyeshadow).

The inner rims were lined with a greeny metallic (Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Rue de Rivoli; launching fall 2011). The finishing touch was bright turquoise underneath the lower lashes: Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Abbey Road (out this fall; try Kaliste Eyeliner Pencil).

Whew! Got all that?

Here’s how it looks on an Asian eye:

NYFW F11 3.1 Phillip Lim 3 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

Kind of cool, right? Even though you wouldn’t think it would work.

The effect is, of course, less dramatic (but still stunning) on darker skin tones:

NYFW F11 3.1 Phillip Lim 4 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

Gorgeous.

Taylor Momsen-esque at L’Wren Scott:

NYFW F11 LWren Scott 1 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

Would you believe it if I told you that Taylor Momsen was actually the inspiration for this look? Fo realz.

Every time I see Taylor I get the urge to provide her with a hot meal and a warm bath (plus a wet facecloth to wipe off all that gunk)… so I’m not really feeling this. I dig the excessive eyeshadow trend, but only to a point. Even this is too heavy-handed for my taste.

For real life, I suggest toning the raccoon eyes down—way down. The prodz used here were Lancôme Le Crayon Kohl Eyeliner in Black Ebony and the black pigment from the company’s forthcoming Gris Fatale eye shadow palette (out this fall). Oh, and one of my all-time favourite mascaras, Lancôme Hypnôse.

Imperfect Purples at Narciso Rodriguez:

NYFW F11 Narciso Rodriguez 3 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

So if you’re not feeling this extreme eyeshadow thing, AT ALL, then perhaps you’ll enjoy Narciso’s “scruffy sexy” version, where the colour was applied under the lower lashes (which makes it fresh) but stopped at the crease (before it makes you uncomfortable).

And my goodness—isn’t it purty?

NYFW F11 Narciso Rodriguez 2 New York F/W 11: The new way to wear eyeshadow, apparently, is all the way around the eyes and (eeks!) up to the eyebrows

The prodz are Shiseido, specifically the Shimmering Cream Eye Color in a mixture of Purple Dawn and Caviar. I’ve got a few of these little pots and they rock. Usually, I apply ‘em with my fingers, but here, makeup maestro Dick Page used an angled brush close to the lashes and then blended with a creamy black pigment.

So tell me—

Would you ever wear your eyeshadow all crazy-like (a la Vera Wang or 3.1 Phillip Lim)?
Or is the purple Narciso version as far as you’re willing to go?
Does it strike you as odd that designers are taking makeup tips from Taylor Momsen?

11 Comments

Mia
Monday, February 21/2011 at 3:23 pm

I think it just looks messy and inept, with the exception of the Asian model at Vera Wang wearing the Cle de Peau (btw their concealer is the BEST EVER. Pricey absolutely but worth it). Also I suppose the purple looks OK but a bit too much.
Many of these “pushing the envelope” looks are OK on the runway but there’s no way you’d look like anything but a lunatic wearing them on the street!

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Thursday, February 24/2011 at 5:33 pm

Oh really? That was the one I thought you guys would think was the most scary! But I see your point – I’m a fan of extending the colour under the eyes, but I would never do it all the way up to the eyebrows.

PS – I concur re: Cle de Peau concealer!

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Kat
Monday, February 21/2011 at 6:44 pm

I don’t know about that trend… The first few examples kinda had me going what the hell, those designers want women to start wearing zombie makeup?! The softer, pastel version is slightly better, but somehow it still looks too “supernatural” for me.. Must be all those vampire movies and stuffs, not sure it translates well to “real life”.

I’d rather extend the color outwards towards the hairline than upwards and downwards.. so at the same time?! Forget about it! I’ll extend a really neutral, natural color up to the brow and even perhaps under the eye, but not a (literal) “punch” of color like that. (Do the test, try it in the black, smokey shades at the beginning, but just one eye. Voilà, you’ve been punched!)

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Thursday, February 24/2011 at 5:41 pm

Yes – up and diagonally towards the hairline is probably as “out there” as us civilians would want to take this. I feel like I’ve posted a pic recently of that look, but maybe I dreamed that – can’t find right now. :-(

And yes, I totally agree that some of these ladies look like they have black eyes. Especially the Vera Wang girls!

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Beauty Reductionista
Tuesday, February 22/2011 at 12:13 am

I have been taking my shadows to the limit lately, and I feel like this look is the inevitable finale before we revert to a completely nude eye look. Enjoy while it lasts?

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Thursday, February 24/2011 at 5:41 pm

You’re probably right! Fashion is so fickle.

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Jane
Tuesday, February 22/2011 at 10:33 am

Yeah…no.

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lolly
Tuesday, February 22/2011 at 11:31 pm

I love this! I usually just put eyeshadow up to/around the crease and tonight I tried this out with a medium brown shadow – I’m brown-skinned so it’s basically a little lighter than the color of my dark eye circles (doesn’t sound attractive, I know). I really, really liked it. I think the trick is to avoid putting it in the inner eye corner which just makes you look like you got punched (and as you’ve mentioned several times, concealing that area makes you look much fresher/awake). It was definitely more Vera Wang than L’Wren Scott.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Thursday, February 24/2011 at 5:43 pm

Ahh finally someone who likes this one! That actually sounds really pretty, and without so much in the inner corners it sounds sort of along the same lines as what Kat & I were discussing above. Good job! I remember a few years back, Lancome was pushing a line of shadows with Daria in the ads and they were talking up this new way of applying eyeshadow to the inner not outer corners. Yeah.. it never really caught on.

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Eva
Wednesday, February 23/2011 at 3:05 pm

Washing eyelid with green/purple is definitely for people with darker skin. On lighter skin, it’s looks like dark circle.
I think if your eyes are wide set and the outer corner of your eyes are not winged up, this is the look for you. Just remember to blend the edges really well

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Thursday, February 24/2011 at 5:45 pm

Blending is key! And good point re: dark circles… I think when the application is so soft (like a wash of colour instead of a deliberate line, like the S/S ’11 Oscar de la Renta version) it can definitely make you look ill. Proceed with caution!

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