Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

Milan Fashion Week Fall 2011 DSquared2 makeup

Now that the Oscars are dunzo, let’s return to our regularly scheduled programming—because while we were gone, um, Milan Fashion Week happened. Sure, we got a little taste of it with the mascara-less ladies of Prada, and the burgundy lips ‘n lids at Gucci and Fendi respectively… but oh mah gawd. If you are an eyeliner girl (and I AM, although I’d forgive you if you thought I was just about the lipstick), you will enjoy these latest shows very, very much.

There are many reasons to love eyeliner, and if you, too, are lacking in the Eyelid Crease Department—not to be confused with the Ministry of Short, Stubby Eyelashes—you know how essential it is to defining your eyes. (Because eyeshadow disappears into thin air when we try to wear it, kind of like how Snooki’s endorsement opportunities will go, once Jersey Shore wraps up. At least I hope.)

But enough about me and MY eye-shape problems. No matter what type of eyes you were born with, eyeliner is also excellent for “grounding” eyeshadow (particularly when it’s a bright colour, as Gucci Westman so cleverly demonstrates), making eyes look bigger and lashes look insanely thicker, and, of course, pulling off that seksi come-hither thing that every girl needs in her bag of beauty tricks.

And speaking of beauty tricks, you can always use a few more, right? Here are four—four!—cool eyelining techniques I spotted in Milan, starting with the awesome, awesome tear duct dip.

FULLY SICK EYELINER OPTION #1: The Tear Duct Dip at DSquared²

Okay, before we examine the pics, remember this look? Richard Chai, S/S ’11, demonstrated by Gucci Westman in this vid.

Richard Chai SS11 3 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

See how the eyeliner along the bottom kind of dips down at the inner corners? I have no idea if it has an official name or what, but I’m gonna call it the “tear duct dip.”

And here it is at DSquared²:

MFW F11 DSquared2 1 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner
Just with slightly more eyeshadow, which you may want to skip. The makeup artist behind the look was Val Garland (whose excellent “makeup tips you can actually use” you might recall from when she was working for YSL).

For this look, she used M.A.C, and it’s actually a combination of shadow plus liner that was applied to the upper and lower lash lines. (M.A.C Mineralize Eyeshadow in Smoked Ruby , available this fall, and M.A.C Pro Creme Liner in Black to intensify it.)

Now, I know we’ve been talking a lot about darkening the waterlines, and that’s usually my go-to, but you might want to try the technique here, which was to brighten them with a white liner (M.A.C Eye Kohl in Fascinating).

MFW F11 DSquared2 2 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

Besides mascara, the finishing touch for the tear duct thingie is a bit of highlight at the inner corners—this was M.A.C Superslick Liquid Liner in Pure Show.

FULLY SICK EYELINER OPTION #2: Graphic but Girly at D&G

MFW F11 DG 1 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

So maybe you’re not wearing ENOUGH eyeliner. That was my thought when I saw the gorgeous D&G pics. It’s a reprise of the whole ’60s thing, which to me, nevah gets old!

This is by Pat McGrath (sadly we can’t buy the Dolce & Gabbana makeup she used here in Canada). To start, she used a black liner to draw a thick—like, a REALLY thick line—line with a ’60s-style flick at the outer corners.

MFW F11 DG 2 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

And just like the DSquared² show, there was some inner eyelid-lining with a white pencil. (You can see the flick better in this shot too.)

MFW F11 DG 3 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

I’m also loving those nails! The models all got different colours, including bright yellow, orangey red and this metallic purple.

FULLY SICK EYELINER OPTION #3: ’60s Rock ‘n Roll at  Gianfranco Ferré

MFW F11 Gianfranco Ferre 1 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

The thing that’s different about THIS eyeliner (as, say, compared to D&G’s) is that “there’s no hook to the line,” says Chanel makeup artist Peter Philips.

You can see it here:

MFW F11 Gianfranco Ferre 2 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

Interestingly, Philips went all old school with this, and used a powder eyeliner (Chanel Professional Eyeliner Duo in Noir-Lame) with a wet eyeliner brush to apply it.

The other thing that makes this cool is the chunky (but not clumpy) lashes. They got three coats of Chanel Inimitable Waterproof Mascara (combed through in between each), and I think that step is really important to give the eye a rounder, more wide-eyed effect.

FULLY SICK EYELINER OPTION #4: Double Lines at Giorgio Armani

MFW F11 Giorgio Armani 1 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

I love this one, because it’s super creative but in a totally wearable way. AND it builds on an old tip of mine for liquid liner, which is to never connect your upper and lower liners (it closes off the eyes).

The look is by Linda Cantello, who used a black cream liner to first rim the inner lids, and then drew another line all the way across the top lash line, extending about a quarter-inch out past the outer corner. Then, she drew a second line underneath the bottom lashes, starting in the middle of the lash line and extending it outward, making sure the two lines were parallel.

MFW F11 Giorgio Armani 2 Milan F/W '11: Introducing the tear duct dip, plus 3 more new and fully sick ways to wear your eyeliner

Pretty, right? I’d totally do this.

That’s probably enough liner tawk for one day, but don’t forget about the Chanel technique we saw from the S/S ’11 couture show, if you want one more!

Now tell me:

Are you a lovah of the liner?
Which one of these looks is your fave?
What about chunky eyelashes—how do you feel about those?

19 Comments

Lauren
Wednesday, March 2/2011 at 4:51 pm

I am in love with the Dolce and Gianfranco Ferre looks – they’re different, but totally wearable. I’m really excited to start playing with my eyeliner more.

xoxo
Lauren from ChickAdvisor

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sheri
Wednesday, March 2/2011 at 5:37 pm

do you know what lipstick the model from DSquared is wearing?

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Wednesday, March 16/2011 at 3:13 pm

M.A.C Pro Brown Lipmix!

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Sophia
Wednesday, March 2/2011 at 6:48 pm

Loving all of these, especially 2 & 3 (minus the lashes for real life). The first picture in #2 looks so pretty with that subtle, glowy blush.

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Stephanie Andrews
Wednesday, March 2/2011 at 8:42 pm

oooh I love them all! Can’t wait to play with my liner!

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Makeup Morsels
Wednesday, March 2/2011 at 8:56 pm

I love the last one! Might try that soon :) I love that it’s dramatic but wearable at the same time.

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Melissa
Thursday, March 3/2011 at 12:13 am

Goodness, that last one is just gorgeous but I worry I’d need an artist’s hand to get the lower lash liner right… the perfectly parallel direction, the diminishing width and fade-out…. I wonder if for the clumsy (i.e. me), instead of drawing the corner lines, I could just use a wet, fine brush to drag a bit of the liner out to make the tails for both, as opposed to drawing out the liner pas the outer corners? Sigh I don’t know.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Wednesday, March 16/2011 at 3:16 pm

I think so! Or you could just do a thick bottom line like at Pucci. http://beautyeditor.ca/2011/03/03/milan-fw-11-so-you-know-that-rule-about-not-emphasizing-your-eyes-and-your-lips-here-are-2-new-ways-to-break-it-and-not-look-like-a-freak/

I think the key is that the wing is coming from the bottom not the top.

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Arianne
Thursday, March 3/2011 at 8:34 am

I adore the double liner at Giorgio Armani. I like that on the first model, I keep searching for what’s special about her eyeliner. Then bam, a second line! :)

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Nicki
Thursday, March 3/2011 at 1:17 pm

I all opaque black liner!! Mostly a gel liner applied with an angle brush. Easy and effective!
The first pic of the model with the slick back hair – Dsquare I think – reminds me too much of Charlize Theron and Monster!!!! EEK!

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Wednesday, March 16/2011 at 3:17 pm

OMG – totally!

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thechicstorm
Thursday, March 3/2011 at 7:08 pm

I LURVE the Ferre liner! Can you post a vid on how to do a cat-eye? I think I may want to try to rock that with a really pretty soft pink or nude lip.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Wednesday, March 16/2011 at 3:20 pm

You did good with your cat eye on Saturday! But yeah, noted. I think you could go even more drama with it. I need to practice my techniques before I put this to video. Stay tuned!

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Kat (Ramblingbeautyaddict)
Thursday, March 3/2011 at 8:24 pm

Hmm, not really feeling the clumpy mascara but otherwise all these liner options are amazeballs!

I especially liked the dip-down and the thicker liner looks. Giving me many ideas for FOTD!

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Gimped
Friday, March 4/2011 at 9:08 am

I am a lover of the liner, and after learning some awesome tricks on your blog (yay!!!) I feel like I could pull off some of these looks.

I REALLY like the D’Squared look! I find it supa sexy. And the graphic but girly look is awesome too — so glad I now know how to apply liquid liner properly!!

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Jane
Saturday, March 5/2011 at 9:49 am

LOVE those purple metallic nails too! Any recos for that colour? So fun! Love the burgundy undertone…

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Wednesday, March 16/2011 at 3:23 pm

Rimmel Violet Metal?

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Lauren M
Thursday, March 17/2011 at 12:10 am

I have always been a fan of the “tear duct dip” and I am LOVING the “fully sick eyeliner option #2″. Hello my new everyday go-to look! I personally wouldn’t sport the chunky lashes, but hey, I’ve seen worse. Intrigued too by the double eyeliner trend – a look that needs the wearer to have some rocking self confidence behind it to pull it off. ;)

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>insert fake name here
Thursday, August 2/2012 at 6:38 pm

Hey, I came across this while google searching cool new ways to wear eye liner. Here’s my opinion on this post and the New York one: http://darkalternativelife.blogspot.ca/2012/08/cool-eyeliner-metallic-eyes-and-red-lips.html

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