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Well this is certainly exciting! Apparently, the new thing is to wear warm AND cool tones of makeup together, all at once. Are you down?

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Posted by on Thursday, June 9/2011 · 16 Comments

YSL spring 2011 makeup

So here’s the thing. I’m a big fan—big, BIG fan!—of the tone-on-tone look for hair. Yep, I’m happiest when the base colour and the highlight colour(s) get to play happy families because they are from the same family, with only the slightest variation between them. It’s simply more on trend, and also more natural-looking. And you will notice that it tends to fool people, especially men, into thinking that you were born with your artificial hue of choice. See here, and here and here if you have not yet embraced this.

HOWEVER. You maybe should forget everything I just said when it comes to the subject of makeup.

That’s right! The NEW thing is, apparently, to mix your warms with your cools. Not literally—that would just create some vile brownish greenish grey—but as in wearing makeup in both tones at once, on different areas of your face, at the same time. YSL’s official makeup artist told me so this morning, so it must be true.

Let me explain.

So it used to be that you were a “warm” or a “cool,” and that was that. (Yes, we’ve talked about this lots before, most recently in this post about how there are no more colour rules… which fits in nicely with today’s theory.)

Anyway, the old way of thinking was that you had to stick with makeup in the same colour family as your skin tone. Broad generalization alert! This basically meant that warm types had to get cozy with browns and bronzes and peaches… and cool types were saddled with pastel pinks and blues and lavenders.

Now, I’m not saying that can’t work. I think we all know how ace someone like Jennifer Lopez is at the glowy, golden, tone-on-tone thing. Here she is earlier this week:

Jennifer Lopez Hope for Children Charity 2011

And then there are cool-toned chicks like Heather Graham, who last week looked ravishing in a cool (well, technically “hot”) pink lip and icy, shimmery shadow:

Heather Graham - Judy Moody And The NOT Bummer Summer 2011

I love both of these looks, I really do. But if you want to be just slightly ahead of the game—and remember, you heard it here first—the cool kids are pairing warm WITH cool.

The best examples I can give you come from YSL’s campaign shots. At the top of this post is the spring collection visual, which I’ll repeat again here:

YSL spring 2011 makeup

You can see how the cool pink on the eyes and the lips is paired with a very peachy blush. Because more pink would’ve been overkill, obvs.

And along the same lines, here’s a first look at the fall collection campaign (the prodz aren’t out until September), which is pretty much all about cool blues and greens and purples on the eyes, and purple-ish lips…but again, a peachy cheek.

YSL fall 2011 makeup

It’s interesting, non? (I couldn’t find any YSL pics of a pinky cheek with cool eyes/lips, but theoretically you could do that as well.)

BUT WAIT! THERE IS MORE

The other tidbit I gleaned today (which you can use even if you’re not planning on stepping out of the house with YSL-style fuchsia or teal eyeshadow) is that you can use your EYE COLOUR to guide you on your CHEEK COLOUR.

Yes. I know there are tons of mascaras and eyeshadow kits out there designed to enhance your eye colour by pairing it with the opposite shade, but personally, I’ve never really dug their colour palettes or even felt like they made much of a difference. YSL suggests this instead.

If your eyes are more of a cool tone—blue, grey, deep brown, black—then it’s way more interesting to wear the opposite colour of blush, i.e. a warm peach or coral, and go for cooler tones everywhere else. Witness how doing this makes Alexis Bledel’s eyes stand out even more than usual:

Alexis Bledel

But if you have warm eyes—green, golden brown, hazel—then you can shake things up by wearing a cool, pinky blush and going warm everywhere else. You know who is a master at doing this constrast thing? Eva Mendes:

Eva Mendes 2010

So tell me:

Do you stick with your prescribed warm or cool colours all ovah?
What do you think of this new mixing ‘n matching micro-trend?
Have you tried these blushes yet? Because you really, really should. (I alternate between the pink and the peach, and I use ‘em every single day.)

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16 Comments

Posted by Jennifer on Thursday, June 9/2011 at 6:57 pm

I always noticed the blush thing when my beautiful blue eyed friend wore coral blush, but I never connected the dots! Pretty brilliant, I must say! And I was never a fan of products “customized” for my eyes, either- I don’t want to wear blue and purple for my brown eyes!

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Posted by Arianne on Thursday, June 9/2011 at 9:42 pm

I saw you on my way out of The Room this morning. Too bad I was running to work; I would have introduced myself and probably mumbled something stupid and fangirl-y. LOL! One of these days, I will.

I’ve never heard of this mixing of warm and cool shades in makeup either. I like the effect though, so I’ll try it out in the next few days. :)

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Posted by BEAUTY EDITOR on Friday, June 10/2011 at 9:59 am

Oh noes!!!! You were there? I’m so sad we didn’t get to meet. One of these events, it MUST happen!

I’m going to try his advice tonight… definitely doing a peach cheek but not sure if I can handle a purple eye… we’ll see. :-)

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Posted by Jen on Thursday, June 9/2011 at 10:03 pm

The Narciso Rodriguez spring 2004 runway makeup—http://bit.ly/l5wRAF— is in my Beauty Look Hall of Fame for precisely this reason. It was the first time I saw a makeup look that so boldly flaunted this cool/warm mix and did it so well. Coppery-gold eye makeup paired with icy cool pick lips = perfection, and so interesting. It may be 5 years past, but I still replicate this look on occasion to this day. Hmmm… maybe I’ll do it tomorrow!

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Posted by Jen on Thursday, June 9/2011 at 10:05 pm

Plus, it’s equally pretty on brunettes, as in the link above, or blondes: http://bit.ly/l9KH6K

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Posted by BEAUTY EDITOR on Friday, June 10/2011 at 10:03 am

Wow you have a good memory! Thanks for the links to these pics – they totally remind of the Donna Karan look for F/W ’11: http://beautyeditor.ca/2011/02/16/new-york-fw-11-toldja-orangey-eyelids-were-a-thing-but-are-they-wearable-for-real-life-you-tell-me/. Except I think it works better at Narciso with the darker pink lip.

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Posted by Jill on Friday, June 10/2011 at 12:20 am

I’ve always worn both because I’ve always been a little confused about what to wear. I have cool fair toned skin with pink undertones, but green eyes. So, I’ve gone back and forth with warm to go with eye color and cool to go with skin tone. I’ve never known what to do!

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Posted by BEAUTY EDITOR on Friday, June 10/2011 at 10:05 am

See, that’s the problem with the “rules” – there are a bunch of us in the middle who can go either way, warm OR cool. So I would just have fun and experiment (and see this post: http://beautyeditor.ca/2011/04/26/newsflash-there-are-no-more-colour-rules-when-it-comes-to-makeup-and-maybe-even-hair-too/)

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Posted by Nomadic D on Friday, June 10/2011 at 2:43 am

Very interesting. And timely! For me at least. Because while I usually try to keep at least my lips and my cheeks in the same family, lately I’ve been watching myself (as if in an out -of-body experience) mix it up and reach for a sweet pink blush when I’m going with orangey lips. Or throw on a pink red lipstick after I’ve got my coral cheeks going. I thought it was very odd, but kind of loved the result, and now here you are, confirming that it has been validated by the makeup greats. Hooray!

http://nomadic-d.blogspot.com

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Posted by BEAUTY EDITOR on Friday, June 10/2011 at 10:08 am

Haha, that’s awesome! I always find that with trends… there’s always something in the air where multiple people are arriving at the same thing independently.

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Posted by Vero on Friday, June 10/2011 at 7:25 am

You know, I’ve never paid much attention to the warm/cool thing, but I DID notice that my blue-grey-green eyes definitely “popped” when I wore brown eyeliner/shadow.

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Posted by Sophiegoose on Friday, June 10/2011 at 7:58 am

I never picked up on the cool tones for warm skin either! BUT for years I have been wearing the Lorac blush/bronzer duo in Hot Flash which has a very cool pink blush, and I have naturally olive skin/brown eyes. Totally works! Hooray Eva Mendez!

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Posted by Thomas on Friday, June 10/2011 at 9:51 am

Alexis Bledel is such a pretty girl. Gilmore Girls is literally my favourite show EVA! Also I can’t BELIEVE how much of a contrast it makes between her blush and her eyes! Really striking.

Huge fan, fellow blonderexic Thomas xx

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Posted by BEAUTY EDITOR on Friday, June 10/2011 at 10:09 am

Agree, her eyes are incredible!!

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Posted by Lisamaree on Friday, March 16/2012 at 8:21 pm

I am new to the tones and shades thing. I was trying to find my “perfect” hair colour online but realised that I have Cool Skin tones (Olive Complexion) with Warm Eyes (Green/Blue with specks of yellow around the pupil). This baffles me as I cannot find anywhere that matches my specific tones.
What colours would be best suited for me?

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