New York S/S ’12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style… but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and “wet-look” hair (uh-oh)

Jason Wu - Spring 2012 beauty

I know you’re probably contemplating your fall wardrobe about now (in which case, you should check out the Winners Runway department—they’ve got Prada and Dior boots if you like your designer footwear, and I really, really do). But while you’re stocking up on cold-weather apparatus, for the next little while here at BEAUTY EDITOR HQ we’re going to be looking forward… waaaay forward… to spring 2012.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: Fashion Week beauty trends don’t require the same six-month lead time before adoption as, say, that handbag you spotted on the runway. Sure, Chanel might make us wait for the nail polish of the season, but usually we can play copycat and dive right in—even if designers are showing the hair and makeup with sundresses instead of winter coats.

So to kick things off, here’s a first look at what I’m spotting so far on the New York catwalks. Very exciting: bright lips are back again! Very frightening: designers are maybe encouraging us to go out with wet hair, Kate Bosworth-style streaks and/or enormous dark eyebrows. Yikes!

So you know how I said orangey-red lips were a nice update on the standard fall red lip? Well, it looks like you’re safe with that trend from now right through to next summer. The close-up shot at the top of this post is Jason Wu, and so is this one:

Jason Wu Spring 2012 beauty 2 New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

I’m going gaga over this colour. The products are all M.A.C: Redd Lip Pencil, followed by Scarlet Ibis Lipstick (it’s a red-orange shade, available next spring) and Pigment in Neo Orange on top for that extra pop. (Aside: does the model above have the best lips in the biz or what?!)

But it’s not just orange-reds that are on trend. Over at Prabal Gurung, there’s evidence that you can keep your fuchsias too:

Prabal Gurung Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

Okay, you might want to skip that extra touch where it looks like the models have been drinking red wine all night. (Although it’s nice to know that’s stylistically okay now.) But take a look at the base colour, a matte fuchsia comprised of M.A.C products once again: Pro Chromographic Pencil in Process Magenta to line the mouth, and then Lip Mix in Burgundy and Fuchsia to fill it in. You may also wish to listen to makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury (who you may remember did Kate Moss’ wedding makeup!). She told Vogue: “It’s a matte lip moment. I think high gloss is a bit old-fashioned right now.” Noted.

And now we move on to hair. It looks like the celebrity movement towards bright, punky hair colours had an influence on Peter Som:

Peter Som Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

And you know what? I was very “anti-” this trend before, but I might be coming around. Not so much that I’ll ever do this myself, but on this model, it’s very pretty. Maybe it’s just how hairdresser Eugene Souleiman describes it: “Bad hair and bad girls from very rich families.” I’m down with that. The models wore worn-in looking streaks of lavender, orange and pink—all hair extensions that were dyed before the show.

Meanwhile, over at Derek Lam, the thing to do was go big or go home on the brows…

Derek Lam Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

Now, I love a bold brow but this is perhaps approaching the limit even for me. (Sorry, Tom Pecheux.) The yellow eyeshadow—which will apparently be a new spring colour for Estée Lauder, can you believe it?—is making the eye area look bruised. Not good.

That said, it’s definitely more wearable than what he did for Altuzarra:

Altuzarra Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

Yep, Tom’s having a major brow moment—these ones got the full Elizabeth Taylor treatment with M.A.C eyeshadow in Feline and Carbon, winged out using a fine brush. Don’t try this one at home, kids.

The next and final trend of the day could be good news if you’re one of those people who rush out of the house with wet hair each morning. Based on what’s happening at Alexander Wang, you’re right in style:

Alexander Wang Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

The man behind the look is backstage hair guru Guido Palau, who says: “What’s chicer than wearing wet hair out the door with really amazing clothes?” I don’t know… I always feel like a failed beauty editor when I do this, but maybe I’ve been chic all along and never realized it. Either way, I think the real thing is preferable to trying to achieve this with products (here, Redken Full Frame Protective Volumizing Mousse and a curling iron to keep it from looking too straight). The risk of people assuming you just didn’t wash it is too great.

The wet-look trend continued at BCBG Max Azria:

BCBG Max Azria Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Hooray! Bold lips are still in style... but so are punky streaks, exaggerated brows and wet look hair (uh oh)

This time the goal was to make the girls look like they were coming out of the ocean, via Bumble and Bumble Prep spray and Thickening Hairspray throughout the hair, then BbGel on the top section after back-combing. Personally, I’m going to stick with just the makeup on this one, which is minimal but glorious thanks to the expert eye of Charlotte Willer. Nope, that’s not a lip stain on the lips (darn!), just Maybelline New York Baby Lips Repairing Lip Balm. It’s on the eyes too!

Tell me:

Are you excited that you don’t have to put away your bright lipsticks anytime soon?
What about big brows—does this inspire you to put away the tweezers and break out the brow pencil? (This is a good one, by the way.)
Did you realize how chic you are when you leave the house with wet hair? Yeah, me neither.

10 Comments

Jane
Monday, September 12/2011 at 2:25 pm

Such a great post! Love the insider FW scoop, and I am LOLing over a couple of these for sure. The bright lip- YAY! The punched eye & wet hair look- not so much. Just….no. But I agree about the hair, it’s pretty and cute on the right person and for the right occasion. My daughters did the My Little Pony pink streaks at the beginning of summer and they were just too cute. Like Ellie Goulding!

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:52 pm

Your daughters are so fashion forward! I LOVE the idea of My Little Pony hair – so fun!

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Thomas
Monday, September 12/2011 at 2:33 pm

Oh dear. How much do those two girls at the bottom look like they have never heard of shampoo before? Not good. Not good at all. The picture with the ridiculously solid black brow is very Lady GaGa, I almost LIKE it (not that, if I was a girl, I’d ever wear it myself).

Never mind that poor girls faux-bruised eyes, it looks like they just smacked her in the face with a powder puff full of that vile yellow crap!!! Why is the lower half of her face so greeny-yellow???

Finally, I don’t think I will ever be down with having multi-hued hair. I think natural colours are so much prettier than having toxic green or whatever (although I make an exception for the Sienna Miller peachy tint, that was loverly). Also speaking of that particular post, you know when Dianna Argon got that god-awful pink colour? It soo totally was for a role, and it actually looks quite good with the makeup and styling in a sort of punky, grungy way – http://www.boomtron.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/quinn-pink-hair-glee.jpg – this is the best picture I could find, but see what I mean?

Huge fan, hyper-hair-colour-aware Thomas xx

http://changingcoloursofahairdyeaddict.tumblr.com/

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:54 pm

Okay I have to admit that DOES look kind of good on Dianna A. For a day. With that makeup. I guess it’s one of those colours where you need to be “done” for it to look right… When Katy Perry wore her new hair with a bare face I wasn’t feeling it. (Mind you, I didn’t like it with her makeup face either – ha!)

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Kat
Monday, September 12/2011 at 10:40 pm

Oh dear, the penultimate picture, that’s me getting caught in a sudden torrential rain fall this afternoon! How did you get that? :P j/k

Same flat, lifeless wet hair, paired with the black liner and mascara racoon eyes.. Nearly identical (safe the whole y’know.. model thing), it’s sad.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:55 pm

Very sad! This look seems to happen every fashion week and I don’t get it. But nice to know I can pretend to be “chic” when I’m just lazy.

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Sophia
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 1:25 pm

The girl with the orange streak has my dream shade of blonde. Also I need to try on some orange lipsticks…I stayed away from them thinking they were best for goldeny complexions but it seems like it’s all about which shade and undertones you get.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:57 pm

I totally agree! I actually find that my skintone (which is neutral but probably slightly on the cooler side) looks better in orangey lipsticks than hot pink ones! it’s weird – I never would have imagined that. You just gotta test drive a few colours… I still can’t pull off the really yellow ones but the contrast between warm lips/cool(ish) skin is really nice!

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Ana P
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:41 pm

Oh dear. I get a lot of things. But the bruised brow/eye look, not cool, or sexy or even neat-o artsy.
The wet hair look and accompanied make up just brings out the ugly in the “ugly beautiful” in my opinion. I’m confused, and really not sure what inspiration these designers were pulling from!
I grew up in the grunge era, so I get the minimalist and not trying too hard look, but I sadly can’t appreciate these! The lippy and punk streaks get me excited though. I heart my bright lips!

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:58 pm

I’m with you! Does not compute. Seeing lots of great red lips though so stay tuned!

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