New York S/S ’12: Look! New and exciting ways to wear your eyeshadow (if you’ve been doing the same old smoky thing for ages)

Peter Som - Spring 2012 beauty

I have to confess—for someone who writes an awful lot about new techniques you can use with your eyeshadow, I’m one of the most unadventurous people on the planet when it comes to that particular facial region. I’ve always blamed my heavy lids, which are kind of like the Bermuda triangle of eye makeup. Below the crease, everything disappears save mascara and eyeliner. Hence my obsession with lining the waterlines, and emphasizing the lashes… on the lids, I usually just slap on my favourite Dior cream shadow (now discontinued—sob!) and call it a day.

But this really needs to change. I’ve always had a hard time with wearing eyeshadow above the crease (it was Too Much), but a few things have happened lately. As you may recall, last season we started seeing a mini-trend of eyeshadow taken all the way up to the brows. Then Emma Stone wore it and it looked amazing. Then I got my makeup done on Friday (more on that soon) and the visible eyeshadow actually wasn’t as over-the-top as I thought. And THEN I saw a whole bunch of pics from Spring Fashion Week and MAN—the things they’re doing with eyeshadow these days! So if you’re still doing the smoky eye (yawn), consider switching things up with a few of these looks.

First up, the slash of purple just above the crease at Peter Som (above and here):

Peter Som Spring 2012 beauty 3 New York S/S 12: Look! New and exciting ways to wear your eyeshadow (if youve been doing the same old smoky thing for ages)

How exciting! How dramatic! Yet actually fairly wearable, right? The key to this look is the horizontal concentration of colour to create a false crease, leaving the actual lids bare. It’s definitely got a 1960s, Twiggy-style flavour, see it? Makeup artist Tom Pecheux described it “powerful but pastel.” The products are all M.A.C: you want to emphasize the crease with India Ink and Fig. 1 shadows blended together, and then under the lower lashes is Chromagraphic Pencil in Rich Purple.

You can kind of see the same theme happening over at Creatures of the Wind:

Creatures of the Wind Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Look! New and exciting ways to wear your eyeshadow (if youve been doing the same old smoky thing for ages)

Again, it’s that stripe of colour above the crease, this time in a pastel blue. (It’s NARS but not available yet so try their eyeshadow in Heart of Glass.) Everything else is really clean—no heavy mascara, blush or lipstick to distract. I’d probably skip the chalky pink under the eyes (actually a lip pencil), which could make you look like you’re suffering from the flu.

If an earthy palette is more your thing, here’s an option from Timo Weiland:

Timo Weiland Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Look! New and exciting ways to wear your eyeshadow (if youve been doing the same old smoky thing for ages)

Remember way back when at the Chanel couture show and we were discussing the eyeshadow worn high up on the temples? Well, this is another variation on that, and I love how the eyeshadow colour is blending seamlessly right into the cheek colour. The look was “sun-burnt cheeks” (dermatologists would NOT be amused) and the products used were NARS Zen Blush and Bengali and Edie Single Eyeshadows. You could also try this with something like The Multiple, which is designed for eyes, cheeks and lips.

Then last of all we have my favourite look of the day—probably of all the shows so far, but it’s early days. This is Imitation of Christ:

Imitation of Christ Spring 2012 beauty New York S/S 12: Look! New and exciting ways to wear your eyeshadow (if youve been doing the same old smoky thing for ages)

I want to copy this entire face right now! I love how the grey eyeshadow is concentrated above the liner—why haven’t I thought of doing that before? Products are Hourglass: Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Prism and Script Precision Liner along the lash line. I love how clean it looks and how well it balances the lip stain (Aura Sheer Lip Stain in Flush).

Let me know what you think:

Do you fall back a bit too often on the smoky eye?
Which one of these looks is your favourite?
Which one(s) would you actually wear out in public? (Are you brave enough to try the Creatures of the Wind blue?)


Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 3:55 pm

I love this! Looking at the first picture, my brain kicked into gear thinking ‘how can i do this, what eyeshadow will i use, i wonder what foundation is the model wearing’…then at the second pic I thought ‘ehh maybe its not for me, that looks a bit dodge’ and then the 3rd pic ‘alas! it’s fab!!’


Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:40 pm

Yeah, pic #1 is my fave! I love how they did it under the eyes too. The photo’s not retouched but with those perfect lashes it looks like an ad! Guess that’s why these models make the big bucks…


Elaine R
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 4:16 pm

Now that there are two Elaine’s i’ll have to make my signiture with an R…. but i love the sunburned cheek look! I have secretly always loved the burned cheek look, even though i always wear SPF1000000000, and this is a perfect way to recreate :)


Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 4:30 pm

Oh no! I’ll change mine Elaine, you were here first!
It’s funny, i’ve been rocking the sunburnt cheek look all summer. With my Nars Multiple!! And only on Monday morning i decided to stop. WInter’s coming y’know.


Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 5:51 pm

The site’s going to be relaunching very shortly so you guys will be actually able to claim your own names and pick avatars! Stay tuned.

I love the burnt cheek look too – the makeup artist who did my face on Friday actually did another version of that with the blush, putting it all the way across the nose.


Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 6:12 pm

Across the nose? Sounds interesting! Might we be seeing a departure from your beloved cream blush in that case?!


Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 6:44 pm

Haha, possibly! She was big on powder blush and I think that’s a bit easier to sweep across the nose. Every time I talk to a new makeup artist I get a slightly different point of view hence my makeup ADD!


Tuesday, September 13/2011 at 9:57 pm

I LOVE the eyeshadow above the crease trend! I did a similar wearable look today: cream beige on the lids, with coppery gold highlighting above the crease and brown gel liner.

I’ve been doing the last look forever because of my crease challenged Asian eyes, but I don’t blend out as much as shown above cuz it doesn’t show up on my small creases. Metallic or glittery gray works really well.


Wednesday, September 14/2011 at 6:01 pm

I think the above-the-crease look is especially gorgeous on Asian eyes


Elaine R
Wednesday, September 14/2011 at 2:02 am

I think it’s pretty funny that we both like the sunburned look though :P


Wednesday, September 14/2011 at 6:03 am

I don’t like the last look at all, I don’t see anything flattering in it. The first picture, though, is something I might try this weekend :) Thanks for the inspiration, Michelle!


Wednesday, September 14/2011 at 2:25 pm

LOL! I only liked the last look, can’t see any point in the others! I actually do the last one occasionally, it looks great with dark teal.

But, yeah, thanks for making me think about it! I’m going to try the last one in silver!


Wednesday, September 14/2011 at 2:57 pm

Definitely feeling like that last look is a little more real-life friendly. I’m not sure I could pull off the others without looking a little, um, makeup challenged.


Wednesday, September 14/2011 at 6:03 pm

Love the lipstain in the last pic. I might have something similar from Joe Fresh – I’ll have to compare at home!


Friday, September 16/2011 at 11:13 am

Wow that first photo from Peter Som is amazing! I love the purple haze on the lower lash, makes me wish my lower lashes weren’t so sparse. I also find it amusing the way Timo Weiland used glossed down the centre of the nose and cupid’s bow. I get the whole runway photo highlighting thing, but not remotely blending out the edges makes the model look like she’s got a runny nose or something lol. Anyways, super excited about the spring looks… can we just skip fall/winter?!?!


Monday, September 19/2011 at 5:53 am

Does anyone else think the first model looks like Emma Watson? It’s in the eyes…


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