I have to confess—for someone who writes an awful lot about new techniques you can use with your eyeshadow, I’m one of the most unadventurous people on the planet when it comes to that particular facial region. I’ve always blamed my heavy lids, which are kind of like the Bermuda triangle of eye makeup. Below the crease, everything disappears save mascara and eyeliner. Hence my obsession with lining the waterlines, and emphasizing the lashes… on the lids, I usually just slap on my favourite Dior cream shadow (now discontinued—sob!) and call it a day.
But this really needs to change. I’ve always had a hard time with wearing eyeshadow above the crease (it was Too Much), but a few things have happened lately. As you may recall, last season we started seeing a mini-trend of eyeshadow taken all the way up to the brows. Then Emma Stone wore it and it looked amazing. Then I got my makeup done on Friday (more on that soon) and the visible eyeshadow actually wasn’t as over-the-top as I thought. And THEN I saw a whole bunch of pics from Spring Fashion Week and MAN—the things they’re doing with eyeshadow these days! So if you’re still doing the smoky eye (yawn), consider switching things up with a few of these looks.
First up, the slash of purple just above the crease at Peter Som (above and here):
How exciting! How dramatic! Yet actually fairly wearable, right? The key to this look is the horizontal concentration of colour to create a false crease, leaving the actual lids bare. It’s definitely got a 1960s, Twiggy-style flavour, see it? Makeup artist Tom Pecheux described it “powerful but pastel.” The products are all M.A.C: you want to emphasize the crease with India Ink and Fig. 1 shadows blended together, and then under the lower lashes is Chromagraphic Pencil in Rich Purple.
You can kind of see the same theme happening over at Creatures of the Wind:
Again, it’s that stripe of colour above the crease, this time in a pastel blue. (It’s NARS but not available yet so try their eyeshadow in Heart of Glass.) Everything else is really clean—no heavy mascara, blush or lipstick to distract. I’d probably skip the chalky pink under the eyes (actually a lip pencil), which could make you look like you’re suffering from the flu.
If an earthy palette is more your thing, here’s an option from Timo Weiland:
Remember way back when at the Chanel couture show and we were discussing the eyeshadow worn high up on the temples? Well, this is another variation on that, and I love how the eyeshadow colour is blending seamlessly right into the cheek colour. The look was “sun-burnt cheeks” (dermatologists would NOT be amused) and the products used were NARS Zen Blush and Bengali and Edie Single Eyeshadows. You could also try this with something like The Multiple, which is designed for eyes, cheeks and lips.
Then last of all we have my favourite look of the day—probably of all the shows so far, but it’s early days. This is Imitation of Christ:
I want to copy this entire face right now! I love how the grey eyeshadow is concentrated above the liner—why haven’t I thought of doing that before? Products are Hourglass: Visionaire Eye Shadow Duo in Prism and Script Precision Liner along the lash line. I love how clean it looks and how well it balances the lip stain (Aura Sheer Lip Stain in Flush).
Let me know what you think:
Do you fall back a bit too often on the smoky eye?
Which one of these looks is your favourite?
Which one(s) would you actually wear out in public? (Are you brave enough to try the Creatures of the Wind blue?)