London S/S ’12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

Jonathan Saunders - Spring 2012 beauty

So it’s not just Amy Winehouse’s music that lives on. Turns out, her beauty signature—heavy winged eyeliner, a beehive bouffant—is going to be a big deal for spring, at least if London designers have anything to do with it. (And even Marc Jacobs was already on to the trend in New York, although his models went for mega-lashes instead of liner.)

No, it’s not a natural look. Yes, it’s a bit hard-looking. But it doesn’t have to be. I think you can definitely modify things for real life, either by thinning out the liner or choosing a softer colour… or with your hair, doing a modest bump at the crown instead of going for gold. The overall message is a return to ’50s and ’60s beauty, and as a life-long fan of that flicky liner (and as someone who desperately needs the body-building powers of backcombing), I’m happy with this development. Let’s take a look!

Really, REALLY heavy eyeliner at Jonathan Saunders

So the inspiration here was apparently “1950s housewife on South Beach.” I’m not really sure what that means, but here’s the front view:

Jonathan Saunders Spring 2012 beauty 2 London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

Wowza! That’s a lotta liner. Check out the side view to see the flick. It’s a sharp, thick, slightly curved “V” that finishes in a point at the brow.

Jonathan Saunders Spring 2012 beauty 3 London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

I’m not suggesting you try this at home… but if you’re feeling brave, it was all done using M.A.C Blacktrack Fluidline eyeliner applied with an angled brush. A really good tip for this is to not worry about making the line totally perfect on your first go—if you mess up the pointy area, you can actually wipe it into the perfect angle using a face wipe and/or some foundation on a clean, angled brush.

A softer, more wearable shade at Matthew Williamson

Okay, thankfully the look was a lot softer here. I think what’s interesting is that it was done with pretty much the same shape but in a paler colour.

Matthew Williamson Spring 2012 beauty 2 London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

Pretty gorgeous, no? And totally wearable for us civilians. Here’s another view:

Matthew Williamson Spring 2012 beauty London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

No word yet on what makeup was used (or who did it), but I’ll update this post as soon as I find out. It looks like a bronze with a slight iridescent quality. Loving the bouncy hair as well!

UPDATE: The makeup’s by Lisa Eldridge and she has a great vid on her site about this look. The liner is a custom blend of shades from a Japanese brand called Suqqu. (Shimmery chocolate brown with orange to get a “mustard rust.”)

Punky, edgy liner at Richard Nicoll

Here’s a slightly different take on the liner trend:

Richard Nicoll Spring 2012 beauty London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

Yeah, it’s probably not something you want to wear to the office.

Now let’s check out how designers paid tribute to Amy’s hair.

Messy mini-beehives at Christopher Kane

The goal here was to create “a childlike haze of fine hair.” (Wow, and that’s what I try to get rid of every morning.)

Christopher Kane Spring 2012 beauty London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

This was done by twisting the hair into loose knots at the nape of the neck (I’m guessing they were placed so as to achieve height at the crown without having to backcomb). Then hairstylist Anthony Turner pulled strands forward from the back with the fingers. (To set: TIGI Catwalk Session Series Salt Spray and Your Highness Root Boost for a matte finish.)

Again, probably too messy for the street, but you might want to try backcombing your next updo. Just lift each section straight up and make three short, quick strokes downward with a paddle brush (like the Mason Pearson). Make sure to leave the uppermost section of hair untouched so that you have a smooth top layer to place on top of the backcombed bits.

Over-the-top bouffant hair at Mulberry (but I kind of like it)

The exaggerated crown was a major thing at Mulberry, too, although the models all wore their hair down:

Mulberry Spring 2012 beauty London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

Again, I’m waiting on intel re: how the look was achieved, but don’t write off this look completely just yet. See how this model’s version is WAY more wearable?

Mulberry Spring 2012 beauty 2 London S/S 12: Sharpen your eyeliner! (And toss out your hair brush.) London designers are channeling Amy Winehouse for spring

Not saying I’d copy this look for a regular day with my street clothes, but for the right occasion and with the right dress? LOVE.

Final PRO TIP: You probably don’t want to be doing both of these things at once—big liner, big hair—because that’s maybe just a little too much Amy for anyone.

Tell me:

Do you like the Amy Winehouse beauty look?
Which of these interpretations is your fave?
Are you a pro at flicking out your liner or do you need to practice?

18 Comments

Thomas
Wednesday, September 21/2011 at 1:34 pm

I think its great that Amy’s unique flair is finally being taken seriously. As a huge fan of her myself, I know she made some silly choices, but there was no doubting her talent. I particularly love the caramel toned eye flick worn on the brunette model, I think its very soft and romantic, while still being edgy and severe. As for the hair, I really like the beehive and the second bouffant picture, but the one before that is just very don’t-even-go-there-bad-hair-day for me. Not liking the crispy texture at all.

Huge fan, fellow blonderexic Thomas xx

http://changingcoloursofahairdyeaddict.tumblr.com/

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:01 pm

Me too! The brown liner is my favourite – it’s Amy-inspired but very wearable, not harsh or over-the-top.

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Lindsay
Wednesday, September 21/2011 at 1:36 pm

Um. My hair pretty much does that on its own.

The end.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:02 pm

I still envy you. (I’d have to backcomb my hair into a tangled bird’s nest to get even close to that last model’s hair… and even then it would fall in 20 minutes.)

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Sophia
Wednesday, September 21/2011 at 2:28 pm

How about the complexion on that Christopher Kane model?! Rosy pink cheeks and lips, gorgeous skin…natural full brows (although too full for most mere mortals). Love. There’s something about it that is especially gorgeous against the dark hair.

That softer bronzy eyeliner is gorgeous on those models, especially loving the second example. Bronze doesn’t suit me much I don’t think but I’d consider trying a matte brown.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:04 pm

Agree! It’s Chantecaille – three shades of blush mixed together (Emotion, Laughter and Joy) on the cheeks and Lip Sheer in Comet on the lips.

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Elaine K
Wednesday, September 21/2011 at 2:38 pm

Would you LOOK at the girls’ hair at the Matthew Williamson show. Especially the first model..the colour, so shiny, all that bounce… *sigh*

Okay, dramatics over.. I have to say i’m thoroughly sick of the winged eyeliner look. Is that terrible? I want something fresh and exciting! And dare I say it.. its not actually that flattering. The girls above are supposed to be some of the most beautiful young women in the world and they don’t even look as good as they could be.

Maybe I’m just having an off day and it is just a little homage to Amy and I should be nicer!

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:07 pm

Not terrible! I find that I get obsessed with doing winged liner for a few weeks and then I can’t stand it and don’t try it for another 6 months. It’s having a real moment right now though…

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Nina
Wednesday, September 21/2011 at 6:49 pm

I’m pretty sure Lisa Eldridge did the makeup at the Matthew Williamson show. She talks about it in one of her YouTube videos.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:08 pm

Love her!

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abeer
Wednesday, September 21/2011 at 9:09 pm

the makeup at matthew williamson was by the super fabulous lisa eldridge!! x

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:14 pm

Thanks, have updated the post!

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Marina (Makeup4all)
Thursday, September 22/2011 at 7:31 am

Hi Michelle,
Lisa Eldridge did the makeup for Matthew Williamson ;)

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Georgia
Thursday, September 22/2011 at 7:23 pm

Yep it was Lisa Eldridge using Suqqu at Matthew Williamson :)

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Nomadic D
Wednesday, September 28/2011 at 5:52 am

Ugh. I think this is all gross. Except maybe for the tribal punk thing at Richard Nicoll, but then that doesn’t really seem Amy at all to me. Really, it all just sort of makes me shudder.

http://nomadic-d.blogspot.com/

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:15 pm

Not even liking it in the bronzey brown shade?

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Nomadic D
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:28 pm

Nope, uh-uh, sorry. Creepy and weird. And I’m pretty open to new makeup trends, but this one really gives me the heebie-jeebies.

http://nomadic-d.blogspot.com/

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:43 pm

Ok just checking! :-)

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