4 New Eye Makeup Ideas From Milan Fashion Week

Makeup artist Pat McGrath thinks the old smoky eye is "boring".
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Michelle Villett
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Makeup artist Pat McGrath thinks the old smoky eye is "boring".
Gucci-Spring-2012-beauty

Pat McGrath and I are so in tune. Just last week, for those of us growing weary of applying our smoky eyes, I gently suggested some of the new eyeshadow techniques coming out of New York.

Now the fash pack is in Milan and Pat told Vogue: “That old smoky eye feels a bit boring now. This [the look at Gucci, above] is harder, tougher, graphic. Decorative and modern.”

Okay, so I was with her on the first part. I DO yearn for something more interesting than the traditional smoked-out look, even if it's only to switch to a lighter shade (like the metallic at Chanel or the warm brown at Chloé). But judging from the looks coming out of Milan, Pat is suggesting something a lot more daring than that. Darker colours, harder lines... are you ready for this? Come see, and then tell me!

Mega eyeshadow at Gucci

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So here's what Pat is talking about. "Art Deco" lids with bleached brows—and on some of these ladies, it's scary enough to traumatize small children. I actually do like it on the African-American model... but on this girl, it's just too alien-like for me to get on board.

Interestingly, this type of shadow application was at Rodarte too:

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So you know... it might just become an actual trend. I think the take-home message for real life is really that we should be putting as much thought into applying shadow UNDERNEATH our eyes as we are above them. And instead of shading with a bunch of different colours, a mono colour (even if it's not black like this) is the way to go.

If you want to DIY the Gucci look (hey—Halloween's coming up), it's all CoverGirl. How's that for a hi-low combo? It was achieved with CoverGirl Liquiline Blast Eyeliner (buy it here for $7.99; free shipping in Canada with no minimum order!) and then CoverGirl Smoky Shadow Blast in Onyx Smoke (also $7.99; free shipping Canada with no minimum order!) blended all the way around the lids.

Just to give you an idea of how heavy the application is, here's a closed-lid shot.

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I love that there's a Hello Kitty tissue!

Channelling the Middleton sisters at Prada

Okay, seriously now. I JUST spoke of the liner-all-the-way-around-the eyes as a front-row beauty "don't," and here it is on the actual runway at Prada:

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The difference here is that it's right in the waterlines, which is even MORE eye-minimizing than the Middleton-style liner technique.

Don't get me wrong, I love playing with the waterlines—I just think it can be a bit risky for peeps without large peepers, and often better either paired with eyeshadow (to open up the eyes) or only done on the top or bottom lash line (not both).

The pic above was the best of the bunch, but check out this one:

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See how tiny her eyes look? At the very least, this would've looked better with more colour on the lips and/or cheeks, and bolder lashes. And different hair. (Guido Palau, the hairstylist responsible, called it "a little bit tacky." OH, FASHUN.)

Fendi gets out the glitter gun

Here's the final out-there eye makeup look in our trifecta of daring techniques today.

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It's not a Pat McGrath look but a Peter Philips one, and it might look familiar because we saw a kind of similar idea in fall 2010 at Chanel:

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You know what? I love this—to look at. It's art and it's fantasy and it's gorgeous.

However... for my actual real life, I will be sticking to:

An actually wearable eye makeup look at Alberta Ferretti

Alberta-Ferretti-Spring-2012-beauty

Not boring! But not wild and crazy either. The makeup artist was Diane Kendal for M.A.C, who used one of those fun little Paint Pots (Fog Effect; available in December) in the crease and then Fluidline in Blacktrack along the lash line. Remember that tear duct dippy thing I talked about last season? Looks like it's happening here too, in a more subtle way and just at the inner corners instead of all the way around. I really need to practice my technique for that.

And then there's a bit of Iridescent Powder in Silver Dust to highlight the inner corners as well, which is something I think we all should do more often.

What do you think?

Do you agree with Pat and find the smoky eye boring?
Would you ever in a million years wear as much makeup as the Gucci girls?
How do you feel about the Prada waterline look?