Milan S/S ’12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye “boring”—but would you try one of these “exciting” looks instead?

Gucci - Spring 2012 beauty

Pat McGrath and I are so in tune. Just last week, for those of us growing weary of applying our smoky eyes, I gently suggested some of the new eyeshadow techniques coming out of New York.

Now the fash pack is in Milan and Pat told Vogue: “That old smoky eye feels a bit boring now. This [the look at Gucci, above] is harder, tougher, graphic. Decorative and modern.”

Okay, so I was with her on the first part. I DO yearn for something more interesting than the traditional smoked-out look, even if it’s only to switch to a lighter shade (like the metallic at Chanel or the warm brown at Chloé). But judging from the looks coming out of Milan, Pat is suggesting something a lot more daring than that. Darker colours, harder lines… are you ready for this? Come see, and then tell me!

Mega eyeshadow at Gucci

Gucci Spring 2012 beauty 3 Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

So here’s what Pat is talking about. “Art Deco” lids with bleached brows—and on some of these ladies, it’s scary enough to traumatize small children. I actually do like it on the African-American model… but on this girl, it’s just too alien-like for me to get on board.

Interestingly, this type of shadow application was at Rodarte too:

Rodarte Spring 2012 beauty Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

So you know… it might just become an actual trend. I think the take-home message for real life is really that we should be putting as much thought into applying shadow UNDERNEATH our eyes as we are above them. And instead of shading with a bunch of different colours, a mono colour (even if it’s not black like this) is the way to go.

If you want to DIY the Gucci look (hey—Halloween’s coming up), it’s all CoverGirl. How’s that for a hi-low combo? It was achieved with CoverGirl Liquiline Blast Eyeliner (buy it here for $7.99; free shipping in Canada with no minimum order!) and then CoverGirl Smoky Shadow Blast in Onyx Smoke (also $7.99; free shipping Canada with no minimum order!) blended all the way around the lids.

Just to give you an idea of how heavy the application is, here’s a closed-lid shot.

Gucci Spring 2012 beauty 2 Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

I love that there’s a Hello Kitty tissue!

Channelling the Middleton sisters at Prada

Okay, seriously now. I JUST spoke of the liner-all-the-way-around-the eyes as a front-row beauty “don’t,” and here it is on the actual runway at Prada:

Prada Spring 2012 beauty Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

The difference here is that it’s right in the waterlines, which is even MORE eye-minimizing than the Middleton-style liner technique.

Don’t get me wrong, I love playing with the waterlines—I just think it can be a bit risky for peeps without large peepers, and often better either paired with eyeshadow (to open up the eyes) or only done on the top or bottom lash line (not both).

The pic above was the best of the bunch, but check out this one:

Prada Spring 2012 beauty 2 Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

See how tiny her eyes look? At the very least, this would’ve looked better with more colour on the lips and/or cheeks, and bolder lashes. And different hair. (Guido Palau, the hairstylist responsible, called it “a little bit tacky.” OH, FASHUN.)

Fendi gets out the glitter gun

Here’s the final out-there eye makeup look in our trifecta of daring techniques today.

Fendi Spring 2012 beauty Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

It’s not a Pat McGrath look but a Peter Philips one, and it might look familiar because we saw a kind of similar idea in fall 2010 at Chanel:

Chanel Fall 2010 beauty Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

You know what? I love this—to look at. It’s art and it’s fantasy and it’s gorgeous.

However… for my actual real life, I will be sticking to:

An actually wearable eye makeup look at Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti Spring 2012 beauty Milan S/S 12: Makeup artist Pat McGrath calls the old smoky eye boring—but would you try one of these exciting looks instead?

Not boring! But not wild and crazy either. The makeup artist was Diane Kendal for M.A.C, who used one of those fun little Paint Pots (Fog Effect; available in December) in the crease and then Fluidline in Blacktrack along the lash line. Remember that tear duct dippy thing I talked about last season? Looks like it’s happening here too, in a more subtle way and just at the inner corners instead of all the way around. I really need to practice my technique for that.

And then there’s a bit of Iridescent Powder in Silver Dust to highlight the inner corners as well, which is something I think we all should do more often.

What do you think?

Do you agree with Pat and find the smoky eye boring?
Would you ever in a million years wear as much makeup as the Gucci girls?
How do you feel about the Prada waterline look?

9 Comments

Thomas
Friday, September 23/2011 at 1:14 pm

I think that mega-black eye look is very… teenage chav gone mad. Its just too big, and it only works in the first picture! I absolutely LOVE the all around the eye eyeliner look, because its FINE and PRECISE. I’m so used to seeing it casually lacquered across teen girls faces… Its really nice here. Also, how pretty is that gold foil!! Stunning!! Such a fantasy look, as you said.

Huge fan, hyper-hair-colour-aware Thomas xx

http://changingcoloursofahairdyeaddict.tumblr.com/

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ana p
Friday, September 23/2011 at 3:37 pm

Guido Palau…eeee….K.
Sorry buddy, I have no idea what was trying to be achieved in that hair. White trashy to me. That poor model! He needed a GOOD eye brown thread too.
The Prada look I LOVE. Ethereal and soft; works so beautifully on that skin tone and hair colouring. I’ve always wanted to be that colouring! All the other dark eyes, are really smoky eyes to me. Alberta Ferritti, my Italian cousin (far far far), you know styling! The eye is super attainable and flattering. The highlighting is perfecto.

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Jenna
Friday, September 23/2011 at 6:51 pm

Not a fan of the super dark eyes at the top. Not for real life anyway. I also like the gold leaf shot – how fairies in A Midsummer Nights Dream should look!

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Jennifer
Friday, September 23/2011 at 7:16 pm

I think the smoky eye is nice and trendy and long as you vary it and don’t do it all the time. The dark eyes at the top look light a cat woman. I don’t think anyone in real life could pull it off. Except the teenagers. It seems acceptable with them.
The gold leaf girls are so naturally pretty it adds to the allure they have.
I don’t even know what to say about the water line look. I think naturally its pretty but the make up is all off on the two blondes. The brunette looks very pretty and natural.

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Kat
Friday, September 23/2011 at 8:53 pm
Sophia
Saturday, September 24/2011 at 5:44 pm

Could someone forward the last photo to Kate Middleton? That is what she SHOULD be doing.

I think the dark eye is workable with the right attitude and context. Maybe toned down a bit and worn by someone with some “fierceness.” I liked what you said re: attentiveness to shadow below the eye. I’ve been watching a lot of Lisa Eldridge videos lately and she seems to recommend this often.

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Marina (Makeup4all)
Monday, September 26/2011 at 12:10 pm

I actually really love the look at Gucci especially for the Runway but I would wear it out to a proper event. If you can pull it off, why not?

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Jane
Monday, September 26/2011 at 12:41 pm

All I can think of is I am getting myself that MAC Fog Effect paint pot. December you say? Totally digging that last look. Wearable, indeed.

I like a variation on the waterline lining. I have huge eyes so it doesn’t give me piggy eyes but tight-lining is a way around too much waterline. I will even gently wipe liner off the waterline with a tissue while keeping in right *in* the lashline. Even better, smudge the tight line with a beige-y taupe shadow- I like Bobbi Brown Cement cream shadow- for a subtle smokey eye.

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Kristie
Monday, September 26/2011 at 3:54 pm

Whoa, Jessica Stam is looking a little rough in that picture…probably looked a little better in person, I hope.
the hair there is also pretty gross, Id want to wash my hair IMMEDIATELY.

Gold foiled lids – georgeousness.
Black panda eyes – meh, Close enough to a smokey eye that I’ve fallen asleep.
Tight lined eyes – pretty, when done right! :)
Eyebrows on last model – LOVE.

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