Milan S/S ’12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy-looking skin. Let’s dewit! (Get it?)

Versace - Spring 2012 beauty

Skin! Is in! And while it would be very nice if that meant we could all put away our various foundations, concealers, powders, primers, highlighters, mattifiers and so on… I think you know the truth. This is where I bring out one of my favourite beauty quotes of all time, via Mr. Calvin Klein: “The best thing is to look natural, but it takes makeup to look natural.”

Are you with me on this? I mean, seriously—if these 16-year-old models require a truckload of products and an army of makeup artists to get the look, then what hope do we mere mortals have of being able to walk out the door sans face makeup? So let’s just accept it. In fact, perfecting your skin should be the thing that you spend the MOST time on in your makeup application.

I know, I know, it’s not nearly as fun as painting on a bright lip or artfully lining your eyes. But there is some good news. First of all, products are getting smarter: more on this post-Fashion Week, but the newest formulas are able to perfect your flaws while remaining sheer and lightweight. Secondly, there’s a lot going on right now in terms of textures. Let me show you the latest from Versace and Jil Sander—plus one more look (from Versus) that I’ll be giving a pass.

Healthy highlighting at Versace

Versace Spring 2012 beauty 2 Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

The Versace show is always one of my favourites—not because I desire to look anything like Donatella, but because I DO enjoy the trademark bouncy, centre-parted hair, seksi eye makeup and all-around glamorousness of it all. This year was a bit different though, because the focus was not on the eyes but the skin. And yet the glam factor was still very much there.

How’d they do it? Well, Pat McGrath was in charge, for starters. And she used a metallic highlighter to accent the cheekbones, chin and inner corners of the eyes for a lit-from-within glow. (No word yet on which product line it was from; I’m also dying to know what brand of foundation was used underneath. Please let it be CoverGirl.)

Versace Spring 2012 beauty 3 Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

To complete the look, eyes got a sweep of mink-coloured shadow (all the way around) with black mascara on the top and bottom lashes. Then (in a move that makes this blush addict very happy), models got a big fat swirl of rose blush on the apples and extended right up to the temples.

Versace Spring 2012 beauty 4 Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

So if THIS doesn’t convince you to start spending more time on your foundation application, I don’t know what will. Okay, maybe the next idea…

Post-facial skin at Jil Sander

Jil Sander Spring 2012 beauty 5 Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

So here’s another skin finish option (along with hair that’s very similar to the Fendi look we saw on Friday). I love the inspiration: “Raf was thinking of the spa. Both the women who went to it and the women who executed the treatments,” said makeup artist Peter Philips.

Specifically, the goal was to get the soft, smooth, even texture of a post-facial complexion. Without my typical redness, I’m guessing. And definitely somewhat matte.

(UPDATE: The backstage photo above is definitely more flattering than the runway shots, which I think suffer from the bright lights making this look a bit heavy.)

Jil Sander Spring 2012 beauty Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

The key product here was Chanel Pro Lumière foundation (it was dabbed on the lips too). The eyes got a slight wing (Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner) and brows were emphasized with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil.

Jil Sander Spring 2012 beauty 4 Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

Totally the opposite of the Versace look, but gorgeous too in its own way. Just make sure you skip that hair!

Now, here’s the look I actually do not need any help to achieve on my own:

“A shine that’s almost sweat” at Versus

Versus Spring 2012 beauty Milan S/S 12: At Versace and Jil Sander, the makeup message was fresh, flawless, healthy looking skin. Lets dewit! (Get it?)

Nein, nein, nein. This is a runway replica of how my skin looks at 4pm each day—shiny T-zone, slightly red… not cute.

I know the goal was “glowy and fresh,” according to makeup artist Renato Bernardi, but designer Christopher Kane took it too far when he said: “We wanted beautiful skin. A shine that’s almost sweat.” I place the blame on the highlighter stick that went all over the face for a “post-workout sheen.” Otherwise, the mixture of NARS Sheer Glow and By Terry Teinte Délectation foundation would’ve been gorge.

What do you think?

Do you tend to rush through your foundation/concealer application or do you really take your time with it?
Do you prefer the skin finish at Versace (glowy highlights) or Jil Sander (smooth and matte)?
Does your skin resemble the Versus face when you’ve gone too long without touching up your makeup? (Really not getting how that is “aspirational.”)

12 Comments

Lilly
Monday, September 26/2011 at 3:55 pm

Hands down the Versace look! I want to print out the photo, go to a salon, and say “Make me look EXACTLY like this!”

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 27/2011 at 12:54 pm

Same here! I want their big fat lips as well!

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Vivian
Monday, September 26/2011 at 5:27 pm

omg, i am obsessed with the looks from versace… it’s the kind of perfectly effortless looking glam

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Mandie
Monday, September 26/2011 at 7:17 pm

Eek! That last model has unruly brows, hair on her upper lip, a ruddy complexion with, somehow, a simultaneous pallor and the sweaty sheen. Not pretty.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 27/2011 at 12:55 pm

I know! It’s weird because I have another photo of her, from the same day I think, at the Pucci show and she looks incredible. I think the lighting can be very cruel.

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Mandie
Tuesday, September 27/2011 at 2:11 pm

I believe you, it must be a combination of unflattering lighting and a good camera that resulted in this unfortunate shot. I think the lighting is also responsible for making her lips appear dry and chalky. Don’t get me wrong, she’s obviously gorgeous, and this wouldn’t be that bad on a normal person (suffering from flu), but she’s a model on a runway, so my expectations are high.

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katie
Monday, September 26/2011 at 11:00 pm

the versace models look gorgeous oh my gosh, I want their skin, a much better glow then the last look

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Nomadic D
Tuesday, September 27/2011 at 4:05 am

Yup, versace all the way. That’s what skin’s supposed to look like. The Jil Sander skin to me just looks too matte and cakey and outdated, but then who knows, maybe that’ll be the net big thing.

http://nomadic-d.blogspot.com/

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Tuesday, September 27/2011 at 12:58 pm

I know what you mean but think it might be the lighting picking up the hairs on their faces… see how it’s much harsher light than at Versace where everyone looks golden? Trust me the Jil backstage shots are incredible but I couldn’t get big enough photos to use here… will keep looking and update this post if I can get my hands on them. I just love the idea of post-facial skin. :-)

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Ashley
Wednesday, September 28/2011 at 8:49 pm

post facial skin is great in theory but I have never had that much luck…if by post facial glow you mean bright red blotchy and broken out. I think its a sensitive skin thing but I have never had any luck with facials. although i tried a cloth moisture mask like you recommended and that is pretty fantastic.
i am always attempting the versace, thats exactly what I am trying to look like in the morning. The Lise Watier 3 in 1 base miracle rocks its got an illuminator and an oil absorber in a primer. and then i use the NARS sheer matte foundation but i am sure it looks better than the Versus girl. yikes.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 4:41 pm

Yep we have the same skin type! I’m usually blotchy after facials too… with the exception of Dermalogica ones – I don’t know what they do but somehow I always glow without the redness.

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Comment Avatar Michelle Villett
Monday, October 3/2011 at 5:35 pm

Guys! I’ve updated the Jil Sander shots as I FINALLY got backstage ones large enough to post here. You can really see the difference compared to the runway version, which wasn’t that flattering under the bright lights. The backstage skin is definitely gorgeous and “post-facial.” Now do y’all still prefer the Versace or what?

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