Skin! Is in! And while it would be very nice if that meant we could all put away our various foundations, concealers, powders, primers, highlighters, mattifiers and so on… I think you know the truth. This is where I bring out one of my favourite beauty quotes of all time, via Mr. Calvin Klein: “The best thing is to look natural, but it takes makeup to look natural.”
Are you with me on this? I mean, seriously—if these 16-year-old models require a truckload of products and an army of makeup artists to get the look, then what hope do we mere mortals have of being able to walk out the door sans face makeup? So let’s just accept it. In fact, perfecting your skin should be the thing that you spend the MOST time on in your makeup application.
I know, I know, it’s not nearly as fun as painting on a bright lip or artfully lining your eyes. But there is some good news. First of all, products are getting smarter: more on this post-Fashion Week, but the newest formulas are able to perfect your flaws while remaining sheer and lightweight. Secondly, there’s a lot going on right now in terms of textures. Let me show you the latest from Versace and Jil Sander—plus one more look (from Versus) that I’ll be giving a pass.
Healthy highlighting at Versace
The Versace show is always one of my favourites—not because I desire to look anything like Donatella, but because I DO enjoy the trademark bouncy, centre-parted hair, seksi eye makeup and all-around glamorousness of it all. This year was a bit different though, because the focus was not on the eyes but the skin. And yet the glam factor was still very much there.
How’d they do it? Well, Pat McGrath was in charge, for starters. And she used a metallic highlighter to accent the cheekbones, chin and inner corners of the eyes for a lit-from-within glow. (No word yet on which product line it was from; I’m also dying to know what brand of foundation was used underneath. Please let it be CoverGirl.)
To complete the look, eyes got a sweep of mink-coloured shadow (all the way around) with black mascara on the top and bottom lashes. Then (in a move that makes this blush addict very happy), models got a big fat swirl of rose blush on the apples and extended right up to the temples.
So if THIS doesn’t convince you to start spending more time on your foundation application, I don’t know what will. Okay, maybe the next idea…
Post-facial skin at Jil Sander
So here’s another skin finish option (along with hair that’s very similar to the Fendi look we saw on Friday). I love the inspiration: “Raf was thinking of the spa. Both the women who went to it and the women who executed the treatments,” said makeup artist Peter Philips.
Specifically, the goal was to get the soft, smooth, even texture of a post-facial complexion. Without my typical redness, I’m guessing. And definitely somewhat matte.
(UPDATE: The backstage photo above is definitely more flattering than the runway shots, which I think suffer from the bright lights making this look a bit heavy.)
The key product here was Chanel Pro Lumière foundation (it was dabbed on the lips too). The eyes got a slight wing (Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner) and brows were emphasized with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil.
Totally the opposite of the Versace look, but gorgeous too in its own way. Just make sure you skip that hair!
Now, here’s the look I actually do not need any help to achieve on my own:
“A shine that’s almost sweat” at Versus
Nein, nein, nein. This is a runway replica of how my skin looks at 4pm each day—shiny T-zone, slightly red… not cute.
I know the goal was “glowy and fresh,” according to makeup artist Renato Bernardi, but designer Christopher Kane took it too far when he said: “We wanted beautiful skin. A shine that’s almost sweat.” I place the blame on the highlighter stick that went all over the face for a “post-workout sheen.” Otherwise, the mixture of NARS Sheer Glow and By Terry Teinte Délectation foundation would’ve been gorge.
What do you think?
Do you tend to rush through your foundation/concealer application or do you really take your time with it?
Do you prefer the skin finish at Versace (glowy highlights) or Jil Sander (smooth and matte)?
Does your skin resemble the Versus face when you’ve gone too long without touching up your makeup? (Really not getting how that is “aspirational.”)