One of the problems (as in, #beautyeditorproblems) with writing for magazines AND maintaining a beauty blog is that I write magazine articles so far in advance that by the time I’ll allowed to cover certain trends here, my attention has drifted elsewhere. SORRY GUYS. This is what’s happened with BB Creams—a brand new beauty category that has recently arrived in Canada, and which I wrote about all the way back in the summer for fall issues of ELLE Canada and FLARE.
But today I realized, gosh, I haven’t even talked about them with you guys! Not very kind of me, I know. And unless you’re an early adopter (yay you!), you’re probably wondering what the heck this stuff even IS. Is it for blemishes? Is it a balm? What’s the difference between this and a tinted moisturizer? Can I ditch my foundation and concealer now?
So.Many.Questions. And I’m here to answer them. Here’s your BB Cream primer (ha! get it?), and how to decide if you need to embrace this trend.
Okay, so what the heck is a BB Cream, anyway?
They’re only the biggest deal ever in Asia. And now even I am surprised at just how very many beauty brands are coming out with their own versions for the North American market.
The best way to think of them is like makeup “multi-taskers”—although individual brands may vary, most offer a combination of primer, lightweight foundation, illuminator, moisturizer, anti-aging benefits and sunscreen in a single tube. Sounds good, right? The shade range is usually limited to one or two options, since these are meant to sort of melt into and adjust to your skin tone (but more on that later!).
The “BB” stands for “Beauty Balm” or “Blemish Balm,” but don’t get too hung up on the latter. The brands available in Canada so far are not really going to do all that much for blemishes, so I wouldn’t think of them as some miracle saviour for that specific concern. The whole concept originated in the 1960s, when Polish dermatologist Christine Schrammek-Druiso created the original Blemish Balm to target not acne but post-peel skin. (It soothed and concealed the redness.) Later, BBs completely took off in South Korea, when brands there came out with more sophisticated versions that actresses used to camouflage skin issues after having cosmetic procedures. (You do know that South Korea is the plastic surgery capital of the world, yes? People there are beauty OBSESSED.)
Anyway, fans of these actresses naturally wanted to use what they used, and so a cult craze was born. Then, it spread to the U.K. and Europe… and now, it’s arrived in Canada…
BB Creams available in Canada
The first to market was M.A.C’s Prep + Prime Beauty Balm SPF 35:
This was the first one I tried and still my favourite. While it’s not appropriate for darker skin tones (which M.A.C readily admits), I found the coverage and finish impressive. Its priming capabilities helped it last a long time without making me shiny.
Smashbox Camera Ready 5-in-1 Beauty Balm came out the day after Christmas:
Haven’t tried this one yet, but it sounds similar to M.A.C’s. I like that it has oil-controlling properties too. UPDATE: The best part about this one is that it comes in four shades.
Launching this month is Boscia BB Cream, which is a bit more on the natural side:
Unlike the other BB formulas, this one has a mineral (titanium dioxide) sunscreen. I found the coverage lighter than the M.A.C version, though… and the formula is a bit dark for my complexion. (Janine says another shade is in the works.)
Estée Lauder DayWear BB Multi-Perfecting Beauty Benefit Creme SPF 35 (maybe the longest product name ever) is coming out this month too:
I haven’t tried this one yet, but I like that it comes in two shades. The formula sounds a bit less oil-control focused and more hydrating/nourishing (it contains antioxidants and lipids).
At the mass market, yet another January launch is Garnier’s BB Cream:
For me, this one just wasn’t high-coverage enough—it looked and felt like a tinted moisturizer—however, your mileage may vary. It comes in two shades, but no SPF yet.
And finally, props to Canadian brand Marcelle for getting in on the trend too. Theirs is in stores next month:
No word yet on this one since I don’t have a sample… it doesn’t have SPF either.
UPDATE: This just in! Vichy is launching Neovadiol Lumière, “the first anti-aging BB Cream,” in Feb. It’s specifically for mature skin and is supposed to boost radiance and improve texture. The packaging will look like this:
This won’t suit my skin type, but I think it’s a great idea that they’ve come out with a more targeted formula.
How to use a BB Cream
The most important thing to know about BB Creams is that you’re NOT using them to try and cover. That’s still concealer’s job!
No, BBs are more like skin enhancers. You know, for glowy, Photoshoppy, radiant-looking skin. I got these instructions via M.A.C’s senior VP of makeup artistry, Gordon Espinet:
1. Start with clean skin that is slightly damp (either from washing your face or just spritz lightly with a facial mist).
2. Skip your moisturizer and primer.
3. Squeeze out about a quarter-sized amount (you want to be generous here) of your BB Cream and while your skin is still damp, massage it into your face with your fingers. Put it all over—not just where you think you need coverage, because remember that we’re not trying to specifically “cover.”
4. As you massage it in, the balm-like cream will dry down and make your skin look smoother and more evenly toned.
5. Still have imperfections? Go in now and correct them with concealer, foundation and/or powder.
It all sounds pretty easy peasy, but here’s how to decide if you’re a BB candidate or if you should sit this one out.
You might like a BB Cream if…
You don’t need a lot of coverage. Although the M.A.C product is definitely the highest I’ve tried, it still offers (along with all of these other brands) a coverage level that is akin to what you’d get from a tinted moisturizer. If that doesn’t float your boat, you might be better off with a regular foundation. Here are some beauty-editor approved options!
You hate layering products and/or you always forget to apply sunscreen. Who wants to apply moisturizer, sunscreen, primer and THEN foundation? Ugh, not me. The fact that you can skip at least three of these steps is mega appealing. Note: like I said, not all of these formulas have built-in SPF, but for the ones that do, it’s a major bonus.
You have fair- or medium-toned skin. This one’s totes unfair, but so far there just aren’t a lot of options for medium-to-dark skin tones. (UPDATE: To my knowledge, it’s just Smashbox that offers a “dark” BB Cream.) Boo. However, it’s still early days and we’ll probably see more shade options as the category grows.
You should probably skip the BB Cream trend if…
You have large areas of redness or discolouration. Remember how I had that epiphany not too long ago that we shouldn’t be using concealer to cover large areas when a foundation would probably do a better job? Well, I stand by that. My skin can get pretty blotchy sometimes and on those days a BB won’t cut it. Just sayin’.
You have acne. As I mentioned above, the fact that the word “blemish” is in the product name is kinda misleading. While these may not do any harm, I’m not convinced they are the best thing for active acne—you’re probably not going to get enough coverage, and I’d personally feel better wearing a mineral formula to lessen the chance of irritation. (Living Nature make a great liquid mineral foundation, BTW.)
You have a darker complexion. Sorry, ladies. (UPDATE: Smashbox has a “dark” shade—if anyone has tried this and likes it, please let us know in the comments.)
My verdict
I know I’m approaching levels of beauty obsession that are close to the South Koreans, and yes, the all-in-one aspect of BBs IS amazing…. but I’ll be honest: I don’t think this trend is going to find a permanent home in my routine. I’m too dedicated to my moisturizer (Miracle 10) to give up those amazing lactic acid benefits, and the same thing goes for my mineral sunscreen (SkinCeuticals), which I won’t trade in for a chemical version. And while my skin is fair enough to carry off most of these formulas, I’m cursed with Scottish genes that make my skin go red in an instant. So for now (although I reserve the right to change my mind at a later date!) I’ll be sticking with my higher-coverage, but still very natural, Make Up For Ever foundation and concealer combo. The only BB that I’ll occasionally dabble with on casual (and good skin) days is M.A.C’s.
What do YOU think?
Have you heard of BB Creams?
Tried any of these formulas yet?
Are they a miracle product or just another beauty fad?
{ 29 comments… read them below or add one }
SO funny you would create this post now.
I went to Korea Town last week and loaded up on facial masks and cheap glitter nail polish. While I was in the store, the lady introduced me to BB cream. She said it was very very famous in Korea.
I wasn’t completely sold, so she gave me some samples.
Not sure how I feel about it just yet.
I’m more amazed at the timing of your post. Crazy.
Which brand(s) did you get samples of?
Apparently Dr. Jart is supposed to be quite good – I believe you can also order it online from Sephora.com and they’ll ship to Canada. In the ELLE story I wrote we also photographed something called Skin79, but I didn’t try that one – think it came from Pacific Mall in Toronto.
Skin79! It’s actually a Korean brand, and it’s basically one of the originals – often called the “queen of BB creams”, etc. They’ve got a ton of different types, and in fact their classic/original one is the BB cream I myself use. I bought it when I was spending 8 months in China and had managed to lose all my other makeup… freaking LOVE it. I’m very pale and kind of cool-toned so it works nicely for me in terms of shade, and I find it gives a moderate level of coverage while sinking completely into my skin so it looks like I’m not wearing anything. It’s supposedly whitening and anti-wrinkle… since I’m still a teenager and already pale as a sheet, I can’t really comment on how well it upholds those claims, but nevertheless I adore it. Wish I had stocked up when I was in Asia.
This brand:
http://www.mstskin.com/media//Sang-Hwang-Essential-BB-Cream-description.jpg
It’s not bad. At first the colour is quite grey (a little scary), but once it’s blended in it’s fine.
They charge $40.
I actually just started using the Smashbox one and I am loving it!! It does have oil control properties, I don’t blot during the day whereas before I was blotting once a day. But it IS January. Can’t wait to see how it works during the summer. I also find that it covers even better than a tinted mosturizer (if you combine with concealer). I used to use both tinted moisturizer and powder foundation on top and now I’ve eliminated the powder.
I’ve been so curious about this BB stuff, and I kind of WANT to love it, but I feel like it just adds more stuff to to my bathroom cupboard that I already have. I don’t really wear foundation and I really like my moisturizer and my skin (usually) looks nice, so why mess with my (non-broken) system?
I love how you say…”Darker skin – sorry ladies”
How unfair, right? I hate missing out on this trend!
Shivani, Smashbox has four shades, fair, light, medium and dark. I’m not sure if the drak will work for you, I haven’t looked at it (I’m fair) but it’s worth a look!
They have them at Sephora.
Ahhh I skipped over that part of the press release – didn’t get a sample of that one so I (wrongly) assumed it was just one shade. I will update the post – thanks! Good to know there’s at least one option for dark skin!!
Thanks Vicki
I think medium will work just fine on me – but most BB creams ignore you blatantly if you are anything over fair medium.
LOVE BB creams for the summer but am also too dedicated to my serums to make the all-season’s switch. Thanks for bringing the BB secret mainstream
I have a Korean one, the Missha perfect cover, and from the description of these Western versions, it seems quite different… it gives me as much coverage (with a tiny little drop) as a medium coverage foundation and leaves my skin with a demi-matte finish. Which is great that is what you are looking for, but I wanted something a little sheerer and luminous, so I never use it!
Yes – haven’t tried any but from what I hear the Asian ones are heavier…
Do you find the colour is also a little ashy? I understand they adjusted that too for N America.
Awesome post! I was not aware Vichy was coming out with a BB Cream here! They have a different one in asia called the Aera Mineral BB that totally erases pores but the shade is too pale for me. I must admit I’m quite disappointed with the Western bb creams that have come out so far, although I’m glad that brands are catching on to the bandwagon
Garnier was definitely too light coverage to do anything for me, and Boscia was absolutely horrible and I wish I could rip the “BB” out of the name. I really wish I could try the MAC one but everything MAC breaks me out. I’ve tried some Korean Dr. Jart ones, some Missha ones, and a bunch of others but my current HG is actually a Japanese one by skincare giant Hada Labo called BB Moist Cream (with spf!!) *LOVE*
I’ve been using a 3Lab one I picked up in the US at Christmas. Major $$$ but the sunscreen level is pretty high – SPF 40 – which I like, and I do like the coverage leverl. I probably won’t use it in the summer since I’ll want to use my 60 spf then, but it’s nice for winter on the days when I feel like I need a bit of coverage.
I really do prefer the look of fresh, clean skin with no foundation though (it’s so aging) so on the days when I can, I go without.
No problem ladies!!!
And Shivani, I hope you like it as much as I do!!!
The most popular Asian brand BB cream is Dr G Hydraintensive with SPF. Seriusly, all my friends and I use it. And LOVE IT! I get mine off http://www.sasa.com. It’s the no. 1 selling bb cream in Asia.
I’m not kocking the Western brand’s version of bb creams but to be honest, they don’t seem to be an all-in-one as bb creams are meant to be.
Thanks, Michelle! I read some foreign beauty blogs (Japan & Australia (found Me, My Best & I through this blog), and they refer to BB creams all the time. I was getting so curious!
I live in the uk, and i’ve only really noticed promotions from drugstore brands like garnier and now no7. i bought the ganrier bb cream in light and it is waay to dark! (im nc20 at mac) so i 100% agree about poor shade ranges even for light skin. i attempted to make bb creams work for me but i think i’ll just stick to my regular foundation, it appears to be a whole loada hype for a product that in my opinion doesnt seem that revolutionary!!
The thought of skipping my moisturizer sends me straight into panic mode. It just feels so wrong to skip my luscious, creamy moisturizer!
Same as Marisa: no moisturizer? I would die. Why the need to skip it? What would happen if I did put moisturizer on first?
I am interested to give this a try. I work in cosmetics and we got a ridiculous amount of promo material that I was so confused as to exactly what they were. The higher spf in some has some serious appeal. Are there any that come in super light? I find that most tinted moisturisers are too dark and make me look burnt.
A quarter size amount seems like SO much. I use my normal skincare and spf and then use a pea-size at most but maybe the damp skin makes it go on more sheer. I would love to have an all in one product tho. I like how this trend is big with male and female Asian celebs. It does look makeup-free when done correctly. I currently am trying out two. I’ll try Gordon’s method when I don’t have to go anywhere.
Coming from Singapore, where everyone here is pretty much obsessed with the K-wave, BB creams are everywhere. I kid you not. From high-end brands to obscure brands. I own four tubes of them, with two from Skinfood, one from Dr. Jart and one from Skin 79. I have another one from bio-essence as well, but I’m not sure if you’ve heard of that brand.
I feel that the ones from Skinfood are better for sensitive skin, with having names like Aloe whatever and Red Bean whatever. Sorry, can’t really remember the name. I do have sensitive skin, and but I didn’t have any allergic reaction from these at all. Bad point is that maybe they function better as tinted sunscreen rather than a replacement product for foundation. Dr. Jart is good, and it’s able to cover up even pimples. Bad point is that it comes in only 1 or 2 shades, from what I remember. Skin79 is.. hmm. Not horrible, but not great. I’ve had it in a dusty corner for a few months after a few tries. But I’ve been using bbcream on-off for about 2 years, and my skin has seen an improvement!
My freckles have disappeared, and my skin does tend to behave more. (i.e. less giant pimples)
My skin has become fairer, which is one thing which all those bbcreams claimed to do.
But they tend to melt off from my face (normal skin) pretty quickly in this heat which I live in, and in less than 10 hours, I probably have only a teensy bit of the bbcream still on my face :/
I am from SG too and I feel that makeup in general lasts for only 7 hours on my skin because it melts off throughout the day! I haven’t tried Skinfood yet but their Good Afternoon line looks good as it has different bb creams for different skin types (ie dry, oily etc). I like the Ettusais bb cream as they have 3 shades and the coverage is quite good and makes your skin feel smooth.
In general I think I prefer western bb creams to korean because my skin hates korean bb creams! I tried Etude House, Holika Holika and they all broke me out AND made me look ashy (and I am pretty fair). So I’d say western bb creams are better because of the wider shade range..
I am curious about the new Too Faced and Smashbox bb creams. They look good.
skinfood bbcreams are one of the most popular items on our online store. especially the peach sake pore bbcream, the red bean, and the aloe one. other popular ones are the face shop clean face bbcream and the etude house magic bbcream.
Compared to orginal Korean these are at most BB cream related. They hardly ever contain all the good stuff Korean ones have.
Heard it so much from the Korean articles and yes, very much curious about it! So I managed to get hold of BB cream from Skinfood & couldn’t resist on trying another one from Etude House. Can’t really decide which one is better! Perhaps Etude House BB cream seems to be a little too oily & “shiny” during hot summer season. Other than that, this seemingly magic cream is just too practical to be ignored. I’ve been carrying it everywhere with me, just in case I need to jump in the car in the rush and this BB cream will save my face ^.*
Our customers rave about the skinfood bbcream, esp the peach sake, red bean, and aloe sun ones! Common complain is that it doesn’t suit darker skin too well. Will definitely be interested to see how the canadian ones fare.
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