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David Goveia

Angelina Jolie London Salt premiere

I might take issue with Angelina Jolie’s weight problem* (or lack thereof—will you LOOK at those skeletal, veiny arms?), but in the eye makeup department, she always, always nails it.

* Is she just skinny or is it something more sinister? If you read Blind Items Exposed, it’s definitely the latter…

But anyway! I’ve been trying—and failing, really—to replicate Ange’s feline, winged-out eyes for AGES now.

To the rescue: Toronto-based makeup artist David Goveia, whose concealer trick I mentioned yesterday and who is basically DA MAN when it comes to simple, subtle, easy makeup that is sort of barely detectable but instantly makes you look 1,000 times better.

While the girls were getting their hair done on Monday, I couldn’t resist asking David for help on my eye makeup fail that day.

He told me that truthfully, I didn’t do a bad job—and I’m not sure if he was just being polite, because once he whipped out his makeup brushes and got to work on my face…

David Goveia applying makeup

…I liked what HE did a billion times better. (And also better than Angelina’s, mind you. This is more of an everyday cat eye.)

Here’s what I learned:

1. Just about everyone can pull off a bit of shadow at the outer edge of your eyelid crease.

Like this:

David Goveia makeup closed lids

See how pretty that is? (But not my freckle face… my gosh. This is what happens to me in the summer, even with sunscreen.) Anyway, focus on the makeup—it’s subtle. So very subtle.

2. It’s really cool if said eyeshadow is complimentary to your eye colour.

David did purple on me, since my eyes are blue. (Purples also look amazing on green eyes.) If you have brown eyes, you can pretty much wear any shade. I think it’s pretty to have that unexpected soft wash of colour, like purple, when you close your eyes—instead of the usual grays and charcoals. Do you agree?

3. Everyone can do a bit of winged-out eyeliner, but you need to follow your natural eye shape.

Now here’s where I was messing up. I was flicking my liner up and out at the outer corners of my eyes, but it NEVER LOOKED QUITE RIGHT. Too obvious, and plus there was the problem of making sure the flicks matched on either side.

David’s advice was to simply follow my natural eye shape all the way along, which in my case, happens to mean the eyeliner goes DOWN instead of up. (Does this make any sense?) But he reassured me that it’s OKAY. After you finish following the lash line with your liner, THEN you can go back and extend it out a tiny, tiny bit. (But probably not as much as you think you need to.)

Et voilà. Wings! But wings that don’t scream out at you:

David Goveia eye makeup

4. Balance it all out with some shadow underneath your eyes.

You might have been told not to put eyeshadow underneath your lower lashes because it “drags your eyes down.”

Hogwash, in most cases. If your eyes are normal-to-large size, a little shadow (not too much) in a soft colour just under the lower lashes just gives that finishing effect and balances out what’s happening up top. Concentrate the colour in the centre, and blend, blend, blend! It will make your eyes look HUGE.

5. And unless your eyes are smallish, line the inner lower lash line, too.

I’m of the school of thought that lining the waterline always, always makes eye makeup look better. David says you don’t really need to do it on the top, just the bottom, which is what Chase Aston was doing too in his sexy summer makeup demo I showed you.

6. Apply a touch of white shadow or liner in the inner corners.

This is every makeup artist’s go-to trick and I heart it. I always use Cargo’s EyeLighter for this.

CoverGirl mascara LashBlast Fusion7. Chances are, you’re probably not wearing enough mascara.

I could not BELIEVE how many strokes of mascara David applied. Clearly, I was not going far enough with my application technique. So: if you want your eyes to stand out, really work that wand, yo. (You’ll probably realize your lashes are longer and thicker-looking than you ever thought possible. No Latisse—or Lumigan—needed.)

8. It’s okay if everything starts to get smudgy after a while.

There’s a reason I posted about the best waterproof liners for lining the waterline—I have an irrational fear of eye makeup getting all smudgy. But David reassured me that it’s okay if things go a bit south. He says lining the waterline only ever lasts a few hours anyway, so just work the smudges to get a smoky, sooty effect. Okay then!

9. Keep in mind that nobody should be noticing your makeup… just how big your eyes are.

This is the reason David is just really, really good at his job. And we can learn from him. He doesn’t do elaborate, crazy, colourful shadow. The focus is on the lash line, as you can see. Just use shadow to contour—nobody should really be NOTICING your shadow.

10. You can do all of this with CoverGirl.

No joke. So we can all stop being makeup snobs now. I wore this makeup from 3pm until about 11, and it looked good ALL THAT TIME—no special tricks involved.

Here’s the end result. (Great photo of David… of me? Not so much. But you get the idea…)

David Goveia Clairol event

So—

Are you a fan of the Angelina eyes?
Will you try any of David’s cat-eye tips or do you have this look down pat? (Bitch.)
Do you own a cat? I do. I’m a cat lady and DAMN PROUD.

woman applying moisturizer, red lips, great skin

If you’re of the Barbie school of thought (“Math is hard!”), then I hope I haven’t ruined your day by mixing math with makeup. And skincare.

But seriously—you should’ve been paying attention in class when they talked about the Order of Operations. Remember that? It’s the order in which you’re supposed to add/subtract/multiply/divide… and goodness me, similar rules exist in beauty!

I’m talking about the order in which you should be apply products to your face. Here’s how it should go. If you’re not doing this, I’m sorry, but—UR DOIN IT RONG.

Step 1: Wash your face

Well, duh. But even this step can be broken down further:

Dermalogica PreCleanse1. a) If you’re wearing eye makeup, use a special remover to take it off. (It will be more gentle than using regular cleanser.)

1. b) If you’ve got a whole FACE full of makeup, you might want to use an oil-based cleanser before your regular one. The oil binds with makeup and also the grease on your skin (to bring some science into this—like attracts like), and so it help to get that shiz off thoroughly so it doesn’t clog and dull your skin. Dermalogica makes a product called PreCleanse, which is a wonderful essential oil blend. And a lot of people swear by Shu Uemura’s famous cleansing oils.

1. c) Personally, I don’t like the feel of the oil cleansers on my skin so I like to wash a second time with a normal cleanser. Foaming ones (like Consonant Body’s) are my bag, but use whatever you like best.

Step 2: Exfoliate

Unless your cleanser is also exfoliating, of course—in that case, you don’t need to double up. (Or if you use MY exfoliator of choice, the Clarisonic skincare brush, to apply your cleanser.) But if not, this is the place to use your lovely, gentle scrub or hydroxy-acid preparation.

Biologique Recherche Paris P50 LotionStep 3: Tone

You don’t HAVE to tone, but if you like to be scrupulously clean, it will help remove all traces of cleanser, makeup, etc. My toner of choice (which is also gently exfoliating) is from Biologique Recherche. It’s expensive, French, and it works—what can I say?

BUT! If you used an exfoliating toner as your Step 2, you don’t need a second toner on top of that. Less is more!

Step 4: Serum

Clinique Even Better Skin Tone CorrectorDo you use a serum? Because you really should. No, really. They are liquid magic: suitable for any skin type, you can find one to address almost any skin concern imaginable AND they’re more potent than regular moisturizers. Think of them like your skincare insurance policy. No matter what you put on top, if you’re layering a serum underneath, you know you’re treating your skin to all those yummy concentrated ingredients it loves.

Right now, I’m using Clinique’s Even Better Skin Tone Corrector, which I promise to post about soon—but there are a zillion serums out there, so take your pick.

Step 5: Moisturizer

You need to let your serum sink in for as long as you can—about 10 minutes—before you put your moisturizer on, otherwise you’ll be diluting its benefits.

Biotherm Aquasource Skin Perfection MoisturizerAlso a bit of a caveat here: if it’s daytime, you can either apply moisturizer and then sunscreen on top, OR just use a moisturizer with built-in sunscreen. (I’d recommend the latter option if you’ve got normal-to-oily skin, as you won’t really need all that moisture.)

At night, use a moisturizer without sunscreen. (Chemical sunscreens, in particular, can be irritating.) This is also your chance to pull out all the anti-aging stops and use something richer that would otherwise make your makeup slide right off if you wore it during the day.

Step 6: Sunscreen

Again, if you did apply moisturizer before this, you need to let it dry for about 10 minutes before the sunscreen.

Do I even need to tell you about my sunscreen of choice? Just make sure you pat, not rub it on, if it’s a natural sunscreen—the rubbing seems to cause it to pill or ball on your face.

Step 7: Makeup

Vapour Organic Beauty Atmosphere FoundationAnnnnd the last step is makeup. We’ve been talking lots on here about the problem of natural sunscreens pilling and balling up on your face, so the 10-minute waiting time rule applies here most of all.

Oh, and if you’re REALLY clever, you might have combined Steps 5, 6 AND 7 with a tinted moisturizer with built-in SPF. So clever, you.

BONUS tip

At the Clairol event we hosted on Monday, I picked this up from Toronto-based makeup artist David Goveia. (LOVE him!)

backstage makeup artistHe told me to do foundation first, then eyes, cheeks and lips… and LAST OF ALL, concealer. The reason is because you’ll think you need way more than you do when you’re starting on a bare face. You could spend 5 or 10 minutes just doing that concealer. (I can and I have!)

BUT when you emphasize your other features first, you’ll realize at the end that you just need tiny bits of concealer here and there.

Smart, right?

So now over to you…

Are you down with my beauty math or do you follow different rules?
What multi-tasking products do you swear by?
Will you try David’s concealer tip? I’ll be posting more soon about the eye makeup he did on me… man’s a genius.