The Sculptural Updo at Issey Miyake Spring 2012

The look was created by hairstylist Eugene Souleiman.
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The look was created by hairstylist Eugene Souleiman.
Issey Miyake - Spring 2012 hair

The look:

Super nature.

The inspiration:

“It’s all about flowers but not florals. The starting point to the hair look was the idea that I wanted it to look like the bulb of a tulip, something for the petal-shaped hats to morph with so that it’s not obvious where the hat finishes and the hair begins. I wanted a look that was elegant but in a contemporary way, and a shape that was both graphic and soft, which is why I created this sculpted, swept-back look [that] was streamlined to change the shape of the head. The addition of spray colour allowed me to bring to life the vibrancy of nature with vivid colors that fade and graduate, exactly as they would appear in the natural world”—Eugene Souleiman, global creative director, Wella Professionals.

The how-to:

1. Start with freshly washed and conditioned hair. Apply Wella Professionals Velvet Amplifier Style Primer as a base styling product to smooth out the hair surface and prep the hair for subsequent styling products.

2. Blow-dry the hair using a flat brush to smooth out the texture of the hair.

3. When the hair is dry, create a circular parting (around 20cm) on the top of the head, around the crown, keeping the remaining hair free. Clip the rest of the hair out of the way.

4. Pull the centre section into a ponytail and secure with an elastic, taking the elastic along to around 10cm of the ponytail to make it stand out from the head.

5. Take a donut (sponge-shaped hair accessory to help create a bun shape) and pull the ponytail through the ring of the donut.

6. Pull the outer layer of the donut forward to form an aerodynamic shape and pin into place—make sure that it is secure, as this forms the foundation of the hairstyle.

7. Section the ponytail in to four sections, and taking each section at a time, backcomb the hair with a fine-toothed comb from the inside of the donut to the end of the hair. Repeat with all four sections. Spritz with Wella Professionals Stay Firm Finishing Spray to give a little more hold.

8. Take one section at a time and pull over the bun section and pin into place around the edge of the bun. Then take the remaining end of the ponytail section and wrap it around the bun and pin into place.

9. Release the remainder of the hair and section off the hair from the edge of each eyebrow on both sides and clip out of the way.

10. Bring the remaining hair together and pull back toward the back of the head, spraying the sides with Wella Professionals Stay Firm Finishing Spray and gently brushing with a small, soft-bristled brush to create a clean, sleek finish.

11. Pull the hair up to the central point of the bun, creating tension in the hair to form a cone-like shape. Tie with elastic and pin into the centre piece of the bun, pulling the remaining hair forward and pinning flat to the head.

12. Take the front section of hair and pull back and upwards. Backcomb the inside layer of hair just a little at the roots to give it some ‘bite’ and then again, using hairspray, brush the hair backward toward the central high point of the bun.

13. Thread a piece of snag-free elastic through the top part of the bun and then use the elastic to gather the top section. Secure on the top of the bun—this should be really taut.

14. Saturate the remaining ponytail with Wella Professionals Stay Firm Finishing Spray and comb through so that it becomes a really thin ponytail.

15. Push the saturated ponytail to the head and using a blow dryer with a diffuser, apply heat so that the tail ‘sticks’ in place.

16. When hair is thoroughly dry, use a large brusher brush sprayed with Wella Professionals Stay Firm Hairspray to gently brush the hair and remove any baby hairs or fly-aways.

17. Finally, using spray hair colours, spray the hair in a graduated movement, with vivid colour toward the front of the head, fading into a lighter palette toward the crown.